The first olive groves of Kyneton Olive Oil, the award-winning producer based in Bylands in the Macedon Ranges, were planted in 1999 by Paolo Inturrisi, who emigrated to Australia at the age of 21 from Sicily.
For anyone raised among the olive trees of Tuscany, a good extra virgin olive oil is naturally one of the first things missed when living in Australia.
“In Italy, there is state-of-the-art equipment, and olive oil producers are excellent,” explains Mick Labbozzetta, general manager of Kyneton Olive Oil.
“I don’t think much of the best oil from Italy makes it here to Australia. That said, standards here are very high; serious producers are members of the Australian Olive Oil Association and must comply with strict regulations, so the oil is always of high quality.”
Inturrisi’s connection to olive oil began in his hometown of Solarino, where he started working in the olive harvest at just ten years old. After his passing in 2010, the groves were abandoned until his son Robert, together with his father-in-law Mick Labbozzetta, decided to roll up their sleeves and revive the business.
“I was close to retirement when I decided to go into business with my son-in-law,” says Labbozzetta, “It turned out to be one of the best things that’s ever happened to me.”
The two are delighted to celebrate the company’s 10th anniversary this year.
Born in Australia to Calabrian parents who emigrated between the late 1930s and early 1950s, Labbozzetta recalls childhood memories of his grandfather’s small farm: “He had about twenty olive trees. I used to help with the harvest, and I loved filling the sacks and taking them to the mill.”
With groves in Kyneton and Kilmore, where the mill and processing facilities are also located, Kyneton Olive Oil has collected prestigious awards for many years, including a special prize at the international Armonia Sensorial Competition held annually in Spoleto, Umbria.
So, what does it take to be considered for these competitions? “When presenting oil to the judges, you have to provide details such as acidity level and polyphenol content,” explains Labbozzetta.
“The oils are then tasted and placed into three categories: robust, medium and delicate – and are judged according to their qualities.”
Labbozzetta adds that, unlike in wine competitions where aesthetics is examined alongside smell and taste, olive oil is not judged by colour. In fact, oils are served in blue glasses to prevent visual assessment. Freshness is judged exclusively through aroma and flavour.
This year alone, Kyneton Olive Oil has won three gold medals. Among their extra virgin varieties are also agrumato-style oils, originally made with lemons but now expanded to include fresh basil, chilli and garlic. These flavoured oils enhance even the simplest dishes, from salads to bruschetta.
When asked what sets them apart from other local producers, Labbozzetta says, “Our production is small, and the care we put into every step is immense.”
“Our goal is to offer the freshest oil possible, because the fresher it is, the better the quality. Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve with age,” he adds.
Driven by this philosophy, Kyneton Olive Oil recently launched a new project, the Olio Nuovo Club, through which the company is working to bring fresh oil from Italy twice a year. For this initiative they are joined by Genoese master miller Davide Bruno, who has collaborated with them since 2018.
“He already assists us with our annual production here, so it was only natural to involve him in this new adventure,” explains Labbozzetta.
Kyneton Olive Oil products can be found in selected IGA supermarkets and at Piedimonte’s Supermarket.
Dining and Cooking