“It’s been quite a journey,” observed restaurateur Johno Morisano over the struggle to open L’Arrêt by the Grey, a new restaurant in Paris’s Seventh Arrondissement. “But now, the bus stops here,” he said with a smile. (“Un arrêt” is French for “bus stop.”)
The American restaurateur, who also owns and operates the venerated Savannah restaurant the Grey, alongside chef Mashama Bailey, was referring to the two-year legal battle to install a ventilation system. But the biggest challenge this new restaurant will face is only just beginning.

Dining and Cooking