Maxed out on pumpkin spice everything? We’ve got the cure. It’s a lovely squash-centric creation that showcases rare estate olive oils from Oregon’s wine country. Here’s why you need to try baking this fall-inspired focaccia from the chefs at Durant Vineyards.
Durant Vineyards has been growing olive trees in Oregon’s Willamette Valley since 2004. Those single-variety extra virgin olive oils are featured in a new quarterly subscription program.
durant via instagramOlives growing in Oregon? Yes, it’s true
The team at Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge Farms fully embrace the wine country ethos of what grows together goes together, but there were plenty of skeptics when the winery launched its effort to plant the Northernmost olive trees in the country in 2004. A trophy case’s worth of awards later and Paul Durant’s project has grown into a true force of nature, with Oregon State University taking the important step of studying the groves for intel on expanding the still-novel practice in the Northwest and beyond.
One key part of telling the engaging story comes out of the onsite kitchen of chefs Eric Bartle and Sara Kundelius, Durant’s resident culinary directors. Bartle is credited with curating a long list of seasonally driven recipes Including Olive Oil Crusted Prime Rib Roast, Wild Rice and Pomegranate Salad, as well as a savory bread he created for the popular Pumpkin Palooza event. It’s called Fosquasha.
So, how does Bartle describe what makes the farm-to-bottle extra virgin, single-varietal olive oil extra special?
“It really reflects the terroir, it’s elegant,” he said in a recent phone interview. If you’re expecting the big flavors some olives grown in warmer climates deliver, that’s not going to happen. “It’s like comparing a Cabernet with a Pinot noir. LIke a Pinot, it’s a little softer, but with a lot of complexity.”
Chef Eric Bartle and his wife, Sara Kundelius, are culinary directors at Durant Vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. They create recipes that show off the operation’s estate-grown extra virgin olive oils.
durant via instagram
Durant recently launched a subscription program to help spread the good word, with limited-release bottles of olive oil, surprise gifts and tasting notes delivered quarterly.
If you’re keen on learning more about the process, set a save the date for weekends in November and head to the Willamette Valley. That’s when Durant holds its 16th annual Olio Nuovo Festival. This celebration coincides with harvest and features tasty tastings such as the Feast Olio, a seven-course Italian luncheon where every course is crafted with Durant olive oil and paired with estate wines. Hopefully, there’ll be some fabulous Fosquasha in the mix.
Durant’s single variety extra virgin olive oils are the fantastic finishing touch on many dishes, including the Fosquasha, a pumpkin-infused focaccia topped with thinly sliced Delicata squash and drizzle of the award-winning olive oil.
leslie kelly
Here’s the recipe for that perfect autumn accompaniment:
Fosquasha
Prep time: 12-18 hours for overnight proof
Cook time: 30 minutes approximately
Dough:
6 1/2 cups all-purpose flour2 tsp. active dry yeast4 tsp. sea salt2 tsp. honey5 Tbsp. pumpkin purée2 Tbsp. Durant olive oil (I prefer the Frantoio, but any of our single varietal olive oils will work well!)3 1/4 cups warm waterTopping:4 Tbsp. Durant olive oil1 small Delicata squash, seeded and thinly sliced3 Tbsp. honey2 tsp. Aleppo chili flake1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped2 tsp. flakey sea salt
Directions:
In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt and yeast.
In a large measuring pitcher, combine the warm water, olive oil, pumpkin purée and honey.
Pour the liquid over the dry ingredients in the bowl and stir with your hand to combine everything into a shaggy dough.
Cover the bowl tightly with plastic cling wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.
Lightly moisten one hand (this will make working with the sticky dough a bit easier) and gently fold the dough over and back onto itself by sliding your hand under the dough and gently scooping the bottom of the dough and stretching/folding it over.
Three to four folds is all that is needed.
Tightly wrap the bowl with the plastic cling wrap again and let rest for another 30 minutes before repeating the folding process again.
Repeat the folding process one final time.
Cover the bowl tightly once again and place the bowl in the refrigerator overnight to cold ferment for approximately 12 hours.
The next day, lightly oil a half sheet pan and scrape the cold fermented and bubbly dough onto the pan and gently stretch the dough to fill the sheet pan to all corners
Liberally drizzle the four tablespoons of Durant olive oil over the dough and gently dimple the dough for all the lovely little pockets to collect all the olive oil!
Let the dough rise again until bubbly and basically doubled in volume.
Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit
Mix your “topping”, the honey with the dried Aleppo chili and set aside.
Begin baking the dough for approximately 10 minutes, then pull out of the oven and spread the thinly sliced Delicata squash over the par baked bread.
Drizzle with the chili honey and sprinkle the sea salt and chopped rosemary over the top of the bread and return to the oven for another 15 minutes approximately until golden brown and the Delicata squash just begins to brown. Finish with a final drizzle of more Durant olive oil and enjoy!
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Dining and Cooking