Pasta e Zuppa di Pesce del Ristorante Michelin Dalla Gioconda con Davide Di Fabio

Davide Di Fabio, una stella Michelin al confine tra Marche e Romagna, ha unito la cultura del brodetto di pesce dell’adriatico con la tradizione meridionale della minestre di pasta mista. Ne è nato uno dei piatti firma del ristorante Dalla Gioconda e una ricetta tanto ricca di gusto quanto “economica”, frutto di due tradizioni del recupero: da una parte i pesce troppo piccoli e spinosi per essere mangiati dall’altra i diversi formati di pasta avanzati.

In collaborazione con Monograno Felicetti https://www.felicetti.it/it/pastificio/monograno-felicetti/

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Hi, I’m Davide di Fabio from the Dalla Gioconda restaurant in Gabicce Monte, a project that was born in 2021 exclusively as a restaurant and then also expanded with rooms. So an idea of ​​an hotel dispersed inside the village. We are inside a protected
park overlooking the Adriatic Sea. I am of Abruzzo origins, I attended the San Benedetto del
Tronto hotel school in the Marche. One morning under
the school desk I found this magazine that talked about Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana.
It had just gotten a Michelin star. I fell in love with his idea of ​​cooking. After school I decided in the winter to send a CV and after 15 days I started working at Osteria Francescana. From staying away a year and a half, 2 years, I started in 2005, I finished in 2021,
so I’ve been there for 16 years. So I was born in Abruzzo, worked for many years in Emilia and returned halfway at the border right between Marche and Emilia-Romagna. The result of all these experiences led me to develop a dish that today I will tell you about: zuppiera [tureen]
with pasta and fish from the Adriatic. What is zuppiera?
Zuppiera starts from the idea of brodetto [​​broth]. Brodetto is a preparation that was born on fishermen’s
boats, therefore all the fish that was not sold, was used to make this preparation which was then the crew food. Once you’ve finished eating brodetto, either you keep it aside, you have it the next day, or all
the juice is filtered and it is used as a condiment for pasta. Therefore, combining these different traditions, zuppiera was born. There are seven types of pasta that are first cooked in water and then they are finished in this fish broth which is filtered and then at the end is creamed with
extra virgin olive oil, the zest of a lemon and a little bit of legumes cream. Where does recovery originate? Recovery is born in country houses, because back in the day you really
didn’t throw anything away, so there comes a certain point when you find different types of pasta used which perhaps cook in 12 minutes, one cooks in 8, one in 7, one in 6 and you can always be careful, but the cooking times never match.
It’s actually beautiful, inspiring and also fun to use pasta shapes that have two or three minutes of cooking time
difference, in fact, to create this game of different chewing. So let’s start from fusillo, which is the one that remains slightly al dente, up to the square spaghetti which is the most overcooked one. In the middle there are mafaldine, ziti, gramigna, fettuccine and cavatappi. So from a domestic need to use all these various pasta shapes, we ended up taking this
dish to high end cuisine. We add the fish whole in brodetto, but Enrico Picar, my sous chef, has the foresight of removing the gills, intestines and blood in such a way that brodetto doesn’t come out bitter. How is it prepared? I start from a base of oil, garlic, parsley, a little bit of onion. I brown it lightly, just wilt it, I don’t want it toasted. It must be the flavor, the scent of the
sea and fish that prevail. So, once the oil is scented with these smells, I add a small amount of seafood, it can be mantis shrimp, if I have prawns and I only use the pulp, so I have some redundant heads, I’m going to add these prawn heads
and in the end I’ll add on top all the various fish. I don’t want fish to to brown, I don’t want it to change flavor, it must slowly release its juices, its flavors. For brodetto, all this very small fish
is used, but it is larger than the small shore fish used for frying. That size is usually a size of fish that is never sold, is never used because it is rich in thorns, but right there in the thorns, in the essence lies all the flavour of the fish. In the area where I am, therefore in the Marche, I can find the small scorpion fish, the small flatfish, goby, mazzole, small anglerfish, tracine. The whole coast here is very famous for poverazze, these little,
very tasty clams. I always add a handful inside because they give an intense savory part. Then I’m going to cover with a bit of tomato puree, a little bit of fresh chopped tomato and then I quickly simmer with
a dash of white wine, let it evaporate, cover with water, ice and cooking starts from there.
Cooking must be slow and I am cooking it at most for one hour. What is the gauge? You need to remove a small piece of pulp from the fish. When this pulp has completely
lost its flavor, in the exact moment at which it has lost its flavour, you have to stop it, otherwise if it keeps
cooking with the fish, brodetto becomes bitter. So at that point everything is filtered and you obtain this brodetto. So, once we extracted all the juices, this flavorless pulp is left, it gave all of its flavor
to the broth, so it can’t be used. Why am I using whole fish? Tradition has always taught that brodetto is made with whole fish. I couldn’t just use bones or the heads because I’d miss all
the pulp part that also gives sweetness. Once we obtain this filtered broth, we put it back on the flame a second time but without fish, so we will
reduce and concentrate flavour. For the legume cream I use some chickpeas, some white beans.
They have character, but they are delicate at the same time and marry very well. Indeed, the cooked legume and extra virgin olive oil make all the qualities
of fish and shellfish stand out. We use the legume cream
that I’m going to add in simply to bind everything together
slightly and make it a bit creamier because brodetto, as the word
itself says, is a broth, not a soup that has its own density.
I’m not cooking pasta exclusively inside the brodetto because I don’t want all the starch to transfer inside the brodetto and therefore create a different consistency and viscosity. I’ll give it the creamy part
with this legume cream. Once we have brodetto and is has already been reduced
to our taste and preferred intensity, let’s bind it lightly with a small part of legume cream. We’re going to emulsify it with a hand blender.
Add everything inside a saucepan and bring it to a light boil. In the meantime, we throw
the pasta in and cook it half the time in salted water, then drain it very well. We finish cooking for the other half of the time
inside this brodetto. Then we start stirring with a spoon. As the temperature drops, we add extra virgin olive oil,
a little lemon zest, then we’re going to add everything inside this ceramic tureen. Close the lid and serve it
at the table with some raw fish which gives another chewing
and structure to the dish. So, I told you a story of
the local traditions of Italy, that is, this is precisely the essence of Italy, the various
traditions put together. Now try it yourself, wherever you are in the world. If you want to taste my pasta, my zuppiera,
I’m waiting for you all in Gabicce Monte, it’s one of those dishes that
I’ll never take off the menu. See you soon. Kisses!