‘A Little Something Extra’ at Lagniappe Brasserie

The atmosphere at Lagniappe Brasserie is reminiscent of a cozy French farmhouse, from the cool sage-green walls to the tablecloths covered with white paper. The dishes and plates are well-loved, sometimes even chipped, reinforcing the feel of a well-lived-in Gallic standby: Classic but informal, homey rather than ultra-refined, yet still rooted in the high standards of old-school French cuisine. The restaurant opened 20 years ago, and the owners haven’t overhauled their décor or concept since. They haven’t needed to.

A Cajun-French word, “lagniappe” means “a little something extra.” At its most literal, this is a small tasting plate delivered to each diner before the meal. (When we visited, the lagniappe was savory: Beef and cheese wrapped in puff pastry.) On a less tangible level, it means that small, thoughtful details elevate the meal. A basket with a selection of house-made breads, paired with a trio of whipped butter, herbed goat cheese, and tarragon-infused olive oil, comes without being requested. The brasserie salad, a lush mixture of greens served with a classic vinaigrette of white wine and generous lashings of herbs, is topped with a single edible flower. The ultra-traditional mustard and rosemary crust on the rack of lamb is spiked with an unexpected touch of lavender.

Lagniappe’s menu changes daily to accommodate which ingredients are in season and available, so it appeals more to those who like to sit down and say, “Surprise me!” than to those who find comfort in ordering “the regular.” Gallic flavors take the lead — tarragon is the go-to herb — but some dishes display more international influences. On the night we visited, there was an earthy, mildly spiced southwestern bison chili with black and pinto beans and an excellent Japanese-inspired appetizer of seared scallops and shiitake mushrooms. As a whole, our menu had an early autumn feel, with surf (trout, coho salmon, and monkfish) and turf (beef, pork, bison, and lamb) dominating. Vegetarians, however, were out of luck. A peek at past menus shows the French country influence in hearty game like rabbit, squab, and pheasant.

Because I was dining with five companions, I was able to do some sampling. The beautifully grilled salmon was topped with a walnut pistou that complemented the fish with more delicacy than an herb pesto would have. The monkfish, served with a spicy Calabrian chili sauce that had serious bite, made a tender stand-in for lobster. The pork chops, topped with an herb-rich mix of goat cheese, had a perfect char. My lamb was a standout, with excellent flavor and tenderness. Opting for the Teras Major, a lesser-known shoulder cut that substitutes for the much pricier tenderloin, meant that Lagniappe could bring their wagyu beef entrée in at just $32, an opportunity for anyone who wants to try wagyu but has been deterred by the price point. It was unfortunate that the beef was cooked past the requested medium-rare, but it was still buttery, tender, and flavorful, served with a salty and rich Sauce Bordelaise.

Dinner at Lagniappe offers fine dining at an affordable price. Entrees topped out at $44 (the lamb), and all meals included the lagniappe, the house bread and toppings, a choice of soup or salad, and seasonal vegetables. Our soup choices were the aforementioned bison chili and a delectable cream of Brie. Side vegetables are chosen by the chef; we had a lovely mix of late summer squash (zucchini and pattypan)—all cooked to crisp-tender—and mashed potatoes.

Our only real disappointment came with dessert; the chocolate roulade didn’t have much flavor, and the banana bread pudding was dry. But I highly recommend choosing two or three of the excellent and refreshing house-made sorbets (we opted for the grape-lavender and plum); paired with espresso, they make a light and sophisticated finish to an excellent meal.

Lagniappe Brasserie

17001 W. Greenfield Road, New Berlin
(262) 782-7530, lagniappebrasserie.com
Appetizers $7–$17; entrees $23–$44; desserts $4–$12
Hours: Tuesday–Saturday, 5–8 p.m.; Open for lunch on Fridays, 11:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m.; Closed Sundays and Mondays

Hazel Wheaton

Hazel Wheaton is a Milwaukee writer. She has had the privilege of learning about food by talking to local experts and tasting everything she was offered—including almond pastries in Morocco, whisky and haggis in Orkney, escargot in Lyon and more.