사진 확대 Kim Sung-hyun, head chef of the Shilla Hotel Continental in Seoul, is adding depth to the world of gastronomy based on the culinary philosophy of “adhering to tradition and adding sophisticated modernity.” Hotel Shilla
“We are creating a new tradition by applying Korean colors to the orthodox.”
Shilla Hotel Continental in Seoul. Kim Sung-hyun, who has led the kitchen here since 2022, which has pioneered the history of Korean fine dining, is completing an original philosophy called “Modern French Made by Koreans.”
Having gained experience at world-class Michelin three-star restaurants such as NOMA in Denmark and LAVIE in Germany, we looked into the new world of gastronomy that he is making as the head chef of Continental after returning home.
Chef Kim Sung-hyun, who recently met with Mail Business, said, “I started cooking while looking for what I could do best, and after knowing the Shilla Hotel, I went on a study abroad trip with the dream of becoming a chef representing Korea.” He chose French cuisine among his numerous fields because he judged that it was the “essence of style” with the system and sauce grammar that are the basis of all dining.
During his study abroad, he was able to see the advantages of both Haute Quizin and Nouvel Quizin, the representatives of traditional and innovative cooking methods. Haute Quizin is a dish that developed from 17th-century aristocratic cuisine and features sophisticated techniques and rich sauces, while Nouvel Quizin, which emphasizes creative plating, is a relatively recent 1970s style of cooking. Based on his overseas experience, he built his own domain by absorbing all of the Nordic ingredient view, German precision, and American variety of menu senses based on French cuisine.
The most important philosophy that Chef Kim learned while experiencing the world’s best kitchen was delicacy and meticulous preparation. He likened the kitchen to a live stage in a new situation every day.
Chef Kim emphasized, “The process of delicately preparing ingredient conditions and sizes is more important than the process of making dishes.” The process of adjusting the length and weight one by one with a zero scale clearly shows his philosophy.
Recognizing the difference between Korean customers’ chewiness and French customers’ crispiness and tenderness, he said the “tug of war” between customers’ favorite dishes and chef’s favorite dishes is important. Accordingly, his goal is to become a chef who convinces customers with familiarity through continuous experience and puts Korean colors on French cuisine.
His philosophy of “adhering to tradition and adding sophisticated modernity” comes from organically combining French technology with Korean food ingredients and culture.
The criteria are clear. First, the intuitive appearance of the dish gives a French culinary feel. The taste should be French as well. Lastly, even if it is not in France, it will boldly reflect the Korean factor if it helps.
This attempt stands out even in the actual menu. First of all, this was implemented from the bread before the meal that can be tasted first.
Chef Kim developed bread by using yeast, a traditional Korean fermentation agent, in the basic dough of sour bread, which represents French cuisine. Although its appearance and taste are not much different from traditional French sour bread, the bread, made by natural fermentation through yeast, offers a “same but different” original flavor. This becomes a communication link with customers, and in fact, from a long-time guest in France, “It’s a familiar taste, but something is a little different. But it’s delicious” was positively evaluated, proving the charm of Continental, which Chef Kim intended.
The new autumn menu “Okdom Cooking” also used bouillabase sauce, which is commonly used in French cuisine, while using kelp to enhance the umami of Okdom. It also improved the quality of gastronomy by using white truffles, which are in season in autumn.
Chef Kim believes that gastronomy should be a choice of various experiences for a rich life, not a privilege. He explained, “A rich life includes the expansion of thinking that can accept differences, such as eating methods of different cultures and new etiquette culture, and fine dining is an option.”
This idea led to a reorganization of the lunch course. It is said that the course was shorter and less burdensome than dinner, and the visit rate of people in their 20s and 30s increased sharply.
It is for the same purpose that it has begun to provide the pleasure of seeing meals. Continental has also strengthened its production by offering course dishes with storytelling according to Chef Kim’s opinion. The autumn course meal begins with an appetizer containing sunflowers and ends with a dessert expressing dry branches.
Considering the importance of harmony with wine, which is the core of French gastronomy, we also focus on pairing with wine. It is a factor that enhances the continental’s tone to explain the unique characteristics of wines from each region of France, such as Bordeaux red wine and steak, Alsace white wine and seafood, by fully linking them with dishes.
The “cheese trolley” service, which carefully selects French direct imported cheese and recommends it in consideration of its harmony with wine, is also the fruit of efforts to fully convey French culture.
In the busy chef’s life, he recharges through time with his family. On my day off, I cook my family’s favorite dishes, run around with my child, and get healing and energy through pure time.
New inspiration is found in everyday life. While taking a walk with my family in a fallen place, I saw my child enjoying the sound of falling leaves rustling, so I thought I wanted to include sound in the autumn menu. Lego assembly, a recent hobby, is said to be a driving force to increase concentration when developing menus by keeping your hair calm.
For Chef Kim, who has been with him since the beginning of the Continental’s opening in 2013, this space is like a space with joy, sorrow, and pleasure.
“With the birth of my child, I felt a sense of mission to further grow Continental as I took over as the head chef,” he said. “When I greet customers who visit only for meals in Continental from far away places such as Jeju and Busan, I feel a sense of responsibility to meet customers’ expectations.”
Chef Kim’s ultimate goal is to complete an original continental that provides an “indirect French experience” that French locals can confidently recommend. “These days, French dining in Paris is also creating new dishes by accepting various food cultures,” he said, stressing that “tradition is a process of developing good things, not staying.”
[Reporter Park Yoon Kyun]
Dining and Cooking