play

See the 2025 Des Moines Register Essential Restaurants

What are the best restaurants in Des Moines? These entries from the Des Moines Register’s Essential Restaurants list won’t let you down.

The chefs behind two of Des Moines’ beloved French restaurants return, launching a new restaurant with an old name. Bistro Montage is making a comeback with chefs David Baruthio and Enosh Kelley behind the menu. Both chefs were James Beard Foundation semifinalists for Best Chef Midwest during their time at those restaurants.

Baruthio said the restaurant will open at 2701 Ingersoll Ave., Suite 105, Des Moines, in the new Star Lofts building. He called it “the first carbon-free emission restaurant built in Iowa.”

The menu will feature some Bistro Montage favorites and some Baru 66 classic dishes, he said. Baruthio described the restaurant as a “very classic French restaurant, a creative collaboration between me and Enosh.”

The wine list will lean into French wine.

The duo signed the deal on Oct. 23 and, with construction underway, plan to open in late spring or early summer 2026.

Baruthio, who also has Café Madeliene in downtown Des Moines, once had Baru 66 — the critically acclaimed bastion of French cuisine — in Windsor Heights. Kelley opened Bistro Montage on Ingersoll Avenue in 2003 and closed the restaurant known for its elegant ambiance and refined French dishes in 2016.

The two plan to host pop-up dinners to be announced at a later time.

Who is David Baruthio?

Baru 66 was a celebrated French restaurant in Des Moines with a rich and international history rooted in the culinary journey of its founder, Baruthio, who was born in Colmar, France, and trained in Strasbourg, France, under Michelin-starred chef Hubert Meatz.

His career spans multiple countries, including the United Kingdom, Switzerland, Belgium, Nepal, and Mongolia, where he opened and managed restaurants and hotels. His star-studded career includes cooking for royalty, celebrities, and world leaders, earning accolades such as a James Beard Foundation semifinalist nod for Best New Restaurant in 2011 and Best Chef Midwest in 2013.

Baruthio opened Baru 66 in Windsor Heights in 2009, bringing refined French cuisine to the Des Moines metro. The name “Baru 66” was inspired by the location near 66th Street and University Avenue.

The restaurant quickly became a critically acclaimed bastion of French cuisine with a romantic and elegant setting ideal for special occasions. His menus emphasize fresh, seasonal ingredients, often inspired by nature and artisanal producers.

He closed the restaurant in the summer of 2019, after nearly 10 years of operation.

In 2024, Baruthio opened a new French bistro in the Fleming Building at Sixth Avenue and Walnut Street in downtown Des Moines. Café Madeleine continues Baruthio’s legacy with a tasting menu-only restaurant that switches the menu every six weeks. Dinner at this 16-seat restaurant is by reservation only. The Tour de France menu is available through Dec. 2.

Baruthio’s book, “Let Food Bring Us Together,” is available on Amazon.

Who is Enosh Kelley?

Bistro Montage was one of Des Moines’ most acclaimed French restaurants, with a rich history that helped shape the city’s culinary identity. Kelley opened the restaurant on Ingersoll Avenue, where Harbinger is located now, in 2003.

Kelley, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, returned to Iowa after 9/11 and launched Bistro Montage. His goal was to bring high-end French cuisine to Des Moines, and he succeeded — earning local, regional, and national acclaim over the restaurant’s 16-year run. It closed on Dec. 31, 2016. He earned a nomination for Best Chef Midwest from the James Beard Foundation in 2009.

(This article was updated with new information.)

Sign up for our new dining newsletter, Table Talk DSM, which comes out on Wednesday mornings with all the latest news on restaurants and bars in the metro. You can sign up for free at DesMoinesRegister.com/tabletalk.

Susan Stapleton is the entertainment editor and dining reporter at The Des Moines Register. You can reach out to her on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram, or drop her a line at sstapleton@gannett.com.

Dining and Cooking