For mac and cheese that is packed with flavor and melts irresistibly, chefs agree on one thing: You should create the right balance with your cheese choices. “The best mac and cheese uses a blend of cheeses,” says Justin Ferrera, executive sous chef at Fleeting in Savannah, Georgia. His go-to combo includes “sharp cheddar for tang, Gruyère for nutty depth, and Fontina for silky meltability, with Parmesan adding a salty punch.”
““In general, you want your base cheese to be a nice, smooth, melty cheese. And then accent that with one that’s sharper and more aged to bring out the intensity of flavor.” “
Katie Button, 2015 F&W Best New Chef
The exact blend (and ratio) you use for the iconic side dish comes down to personal preference. But 2015 F&W Best New Chef Katie Button, executive chef and co-founder of Katie Button Restaurants, which includes Cúrate Bar de Tapas in Asheville, North Carolina, shares a helpful rule of thumb: “In general, you want your base cheese (the one you put the most quantity [of] into your sauce) to be a nice, smooth, melty cheese,” she says. “And then accent that with one that’s sharper and more aged to bring out the intensity of flavor.”
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Sharp cheddar
This robust, often orange cheese is a favorite for mac and cheese, especially when paired with other cheeses. “Cheddar gives you that nostalgic, creamy tang we all expect,” says Tony Reed, executive director of culinary at Spiceology, who uses a 2:1:1/2 ratio of sharp cheddar, Gruyère, and Parmesan (or blue cheese) in his blend. While the savory intensity of extra-sharp and other aged cheddars may sound appealing, they don’t melt as well due to their lower moisture content, so skip them for mac and cheese.
Gruyère
This semi-hard Swiss cheese lends a lovely earthy-sweet edge to the mix, chefs say. “Gruyère is the chef’s secret weapon — it melts evenly and is less stringy than cheddar, adds nutty depth, and keeps the sauce velvety,” Reed explains. It also plays well with other cheeses: “If you are combining cheeses, I recommend adding Gruyère to a sharp cheddar,” says David Guas, chef-owner of Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery in Arlington, Virginia, and Neutral Ground Bar + Kitchen in McLean, Virginia. “It’s denser and contributes a creamy texture while adding an earthy, slightly sweet, and nutty flavor that deepens the complexity of the dish.”
Mild cheddar
“A young cheddar is creamy and buttery,” says Wayne Schumaker, executive chef and operating partner at Butcher & Rose in Columbus, Ohio, who uses a cheddar aged for two to three months in his four-cheese medley. Though it imparts less complexity than its sharper counterparts, mild cheddar’s mellow flavor and beautiful melt make it an important (and underrated) supporting player. “Flavor-wise, it will not overpower or compete with the sharp cheddar — they complement each other,” says Tiffany Derry, chef and cofounder of Texas-based T2D Concepts, who opts for a combo of sharp and mild cheddars as well as Monterey Jack in her mac. “[Mild cheddar] helps to balance the sauce, and I also like to use it on top,” she adds.
More mild melting cheeses
Monterey Jack: “Sharp cheddar adds a more intense cheese flavor, which is why you need the Monterey Jack,” notes Derry. “This cheese helps create the sauce because of how well it melts and the buttery flavor it adds.”
Young Mahón: “I love to include a combination of a super-melty cheese — my favorite being a young Mahón, which is a cow-milk cheese from Menorca — and a little bit of a sharper cheese like Idiazábal, which brings tang, a subtle smokiness, and salinity to the mac and cheese,” explains Button.
Young Gouda: “Gouda helps make the mac and cheese very creamy and brings sweetness to the dish,” Schumaker says. As with other cheeses, stick with younger varieties for the best melt.
Mozzarella: “One cheese that [tends to] be forgotten for mac and cheese is mozzarella,” says Jae Jung, chef-owner of KJUN in New York City, who likes to pair the milky, meltable cheese with Gruyère, cheddar, and/or cream cheese. “Koreans love cheese these days for its texture and flavor — mozzarella gives both nice saltiness and the best texture for a cheese pull.”
Parmesan
Last but not least, chefs suggest capping off your medley with a punchy cheese like Parm. “Parmesan is a versatile cheese with a rich, salty flavor — it complements almost any cheese combination, but is best balanced by a creamier cheese,” Guas says. “If you want a sauce with balance, use cheddar and Gruyère as your foundation and let Parmesan act like your ‘finishing note’ to dial up complexity,” advises Reed, who says blue cheese also works as a fun, flavorful alternative. “Parmesan doesn’t melt as smoothly but brings salinity and pure umami, while blue cheese adds funk and depth that adventurous eaters love,” he explains.
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Schumaker leans into the uniquely salty and nutty qualities of the hard cheese with the thyme- and bay leaf–scented Parmesan cream he makes for his mac and cheese. “Parmesan, the king of cheeses, is the base for our mac and cheese,” he says. “The ratio is roughly two parts Parmesan to one part each of the Gouda, Gruyère, and cheddar.”
Pro tips
Always grate your own cheese: “For the best mac and cheese, always shred the cheese yourself to create the creamiest texture possible,” emphasizes Guas. “Pre-shredded cheese often contains additives and starchy preservatives that hinder the melting process.”
Don’t overcook your pasta: “Undercook pasta by a minute,” Reed says. “It will finish cooking in the sauce and hold its bite instead of bloating into mush.”
Think beyond the elbow: “Experiment with different pastas — there are so many great pastas out there,” says Schumaker, who is partial to snail shell–shaped lumaconi for its sauce-catching abilities. “They have pockets that hold the cheese sauce, and the ridges help the sauce adhere to the outside of the shell.”
Consider fun additions: “The great thing about mac and cheese is its versatility — it pairs with so many other ingredients,” Schumaker points out. The possibilities are endless; chefs recommend taking your mac up a notch with anything from leftover smoked proteins and seafood to gochujang, pesto, and crunchy toppings like fried shallots.
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