CLEVELAND, Ohio — Happy Hour is just the beginning at Astoria Café & Market in Cleveland’s Gordon Square neighborhood. Once you’re settled in – glass in hand, sunlight (hopefully) streaming through the window – you’ll probably end up staying for dinner or, at the very least, plotting your return.
Open for nearly a decade, Astoria has built its reputation on beautiful charcuterie and cheese boards, plus a menu of Mediterranean-inspired small and large plates. The Happy Hour lineup, offered from 3 to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, is a tempting introduction to the kitchen’s full potential. It’s just enough to make you want more.
Happy Hour extends beyond the bar to the high-tops in the dining room, which starts to fill with people as dinnertime arrives. It’s important to note that Astoria only serves the happy hour menu during the 3 to 5 p.m. window, with the full menu available at 5 p.m.
During the early afternoon, select cheese and meat boards drop from $22 to $16, appetizers are $8 or two for $14, and 12-inch specialty pizzas are a satisfying $16. Behind the bar, you’ll find $8 red, white or rosé plus a cocktail that make lingering dangerously easy.
On our visit, Alex and I grabbed a high-top by the windows and went all in on our order. We started with:
Olive Trio – a house import of buttery green Castelvetranos, black Kalamatas, and cured red Ceragioli olives. This simple start reminds you why Astoria is so great — the restaurant is able to import the best quality ingredients that transport you to the Mediterranean with every bite. Greek Feta – creamy Roussas feta drizzled with EVOO and oregano. Another simple dish that we truly couldn’t stop snacking on. Pizza e Funghi – olive oil, garlic, mozzarella, and roasted shiitake and cremini mushrooms on a crisp, thin crust. Umami-packed mushrooms and Astoria’s signature crispy crust made this a crowd-pleasing “main” dish during our visit.
Each of us paired a different wine (because research, of course), though I secretly missed seeing a wider range of cocktail options.
In past visits, we’ve savored the dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and the traditional Greek chicken avgolemono soup. Both recipes were handed down to Chef Cory Kobrinski by the owners’ 87-year-old cousin from the island of Nisyros. He learned them from his wife’s family and shared them with the Astoria team, working alongside them from opening day until his recent retirement.
When Happy Hour winds down, it’s not easy to walk out. The adjoining market, deli and wine shop are full of distractions — a cheese case lined with global selections, imported cured meats, vinegars, olive oils and tinned seafood that beg to come home with you.
And for fellow cheese lovers Astoria hosts a monthly Cheese School. It’s a delicious excuse to keep learning and tasting.
Astoria Café & Market, 5417 Detroit Ave., Cleveland
Happy Hour: 3 to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday
Vibe: Casual, friendly
Food: Boards and small plates with a Greek influence
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Dining and Cooking