Nicolas Joly is an interesting character and a true believer in biodynamics — I’m not talking just the parts that make vineyards healthier (not using pesticides, burrying manure, etc.), but all of it, down to the mystical and magical aspects. He took over the family estate in the late 70s from his parents and fully converted it to biodynamic by the mid-80s. Today, he’s considered one of the finest white wine makers in France.
The monopole of Coulee de Serrant, which is planted to 100% Chenin Blanc, is one of very few single vineyards that has been granted its own appellation. Its wines can be dry or sweet (like this Moelleux), are always mineral-driven, and have a reputation of being among the best and longest-aging expressions of Chenin Blanc on earth.
Tasting notes: Medium-to-deep gold color. Rich nose of apricot, tropical fruits (pineapple, melon), orange zest, ginger, and hints of caramel and honeysuckle. Full-bodied palate that I’d classify as “off-dry” rather than sweet, with a fantastic backbone of acidity that allows the wine to be mouthwatering rather than cloying. Long, honeyed, finish. Outstanding.
by DontLookBack_88
3 Comments
There’s natty wine, and then there’s Joly. These wines are singular. Maybe not the most enjoyable for everyone, but always the most thought-provoking, and for that I love them.
I’ve only had one Coulee, the dry 2015 and I’m pretty sure my bottle may have been premoxxed because it was very flat and meh. Would love to try this sweet version!
For the record, his daughter, Virginie, has taken over management of the estate and the winemaking. He’s still involved of course but that vintage is definitely her handiwork.
Some say the bottles have gotten more consistent than when Nicolas was running the show.
Have one aging in my cellar, maybe I’ll pop it open sometime soon 🔥🔥🔥