The riesling sauna at Südpfalz Therme in Bad Bergzabern, Germany, features a spout that pours a specially crafted white wine blend over the hot rocks, creating an aromatic, floral steam. (Lara Korte/Stars and Stripes)
For anyone who feels a bit daunted by Germany’s textile-free saunas, maybe some white wine is the trick to loosening up.
I recently tested that theory at Südpfalz Therme in Bad Bergzabern, a charming village near the French border that’s tucked between the hilly vineyards in the southern portion of the state of Rheinland-Pfalz.
The hourlong drive from Kaiserslautern took me along the winding roads of the Palatinate Forest and the famed Weinstrasse, or German Wine Route, which runs through the spa town.
The therme is best-known for its indoor and outdoor pools fed from the thermal waters of the Petronella springs.
But on this day I wasn’t thinking about the baths. I wanted to try the spa’s newly installed riesling sauna, featuring the aromatic wine that is native to the Rhine region.
Those who have been in Germany for some time might already be familiar with its sauna culture, which is usually co-ed and prohibits patrons from wearing any kind of clothing, including bathing suits.
To be honest, the prospect made me a bit wary, and I had on more than one occasion declined invitations from friends to visit similar spas.
Steam drifts off the heated baths at the Südpfalz Therme in Bad Bergzabern, Germany. The pools are fed from the waters of the Petronella springs. (Lara Korte/Stars and Stripes)
One of several saunas at the Südpfalz Therme in Bad Bergzabern, Germany, that looks out over the surrounding gardens, giving guests a panoramic view of the foliage. (Lara Korte/Stars and Stripes)
The novelty of a wine-themed sauna had me intrigued, though. So I cast off my American notions of modesty and decided to brave the social awkwardness.
Upon arriving at the Südpfalz Therme, each spa-goer receives a numbered electronic wristband that gives them access to the services they selected as well as a corresponding locker.
Patrons can choose from a variety of services and packages for their spa day. I spent 29 euros for access to the saunas and baths, as well as a visit to the Dead Sea salt cave.
A cool, dimly lit room lined with thick salt crystals, the cave is meant to promote better breathing, healthier skin and stress relief.
I don’t know if it did any of that, but a mere 10 minutes into my 45 minute session, I was passed out on the lounge chair, blissfully snoozing to soft classical music. So I guess you could say I was relaxed.
The riesling sauna at the Südpfalz Therme in Bad Bergzabern, Germany, gives guests a chance to aromatically enjoy one of the region’s most popular exports. (Lara Korte/Stars and Stripes)
Outside the riesling sauna at the Südpfalz Therme in Bad Bergzabern, Germany, hooks made from wine barrels give guests a place to hang their robes or towels. (Lara Korte/Stars and Stripes)
After my salty nap, I headed upstairs to the outdoor sauna patio to indulge in a grape escape. To be up-front, I must disclose the unfortunate fact that no wine is consumed in a riesling sauna.
In many ways, it looks every bit like the typical heated structure with wooden benches and a stove with hot rocks in the center of the room. Aside from the empty, decorative wine bottles lining the shelves, I didn’t see anything extraordinary about it at first.
That was, until a spigot over the stove opened up to let white wine pour onto the hot rocks, clouding the room with fabulous, fruity steam.
Maybe it was just the heat or the contrasting chill of the patio, but upon leaving the sauna, I was pleasantly tingling and spent a few more minutes lounging about the sauna area.
There are other saunas, too, each with its own aroma and theme, such as roses. Also, the spa has a cold plunge on the deck, if you’re into that kind of thing. I am not.
Still feeling warm and fuzzy from my stint in the riesling sauna, I ended my day in the baths. The area is similar to your typical pool — and here bathing suits are required — but the water is much warmer, and swimmers can glide between the indoor and outdoor pools via a connecting doorway.
Outside, patrons can enjoy high-powered jets and sit on loungers while watching the steam rise from the surface of the water.
After toweling off, I made my way to the café area situated just on the edge of the pool. I ordered a currywurst and fries but skipped the riesling on the menu.
After all, I had imbibed plenty of it already in unusual form, and the sauna was invigorating enough to leave the sipping for another time and place.
Südpfalz Therme
Address: Kurtalstrasse 27, Bad Bergzabern, Germany
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesdays are women-only days in the saunas.
Prices: Varies by service and time. For two hours with access to the thermal baths and sauna, 19 euros. For 45 minutes in the salt cave, 10 euros.
Information: www.suedpfalz-therme.de/
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