There’s something quite spellbinding about walking into Somma at New Bahru. The restaurant sits in what was once the Nan Chiau Girls High school library, now transformed into a modern Italian dining room that feels both like a living space and an art gallery. Apart from the team’s cheery welcome as I walk in, the atmosphere is otherwise hush and somewhat meditative. Custom florals by botanical studio This Humid House adorn the space, reflective of the current season’s menu. And this month, Somma presents Vendemmia (Italian for ‘grape harvest’), as a love letter to Autumn.
Photograph: Lisa Cohen Photography
Somma is the brainchild of Puglian chef Mirko Febbrile, whose time at one-Michelin-starred Braci cemented his reputation in the scene. He’s also known for the breezy Italian bistro Fico at East Coast Park, and now, Somma, also a joint project with the Lo & Behold Group. Unlike the more casual Fico, Somma dives deep into storytelling and highly conceptual, produce-driven dishes. That said, the food might look contemporary, but it has comfort at its core – something personally important to Chef Mirko, who grew up on many of the dishes that inspired this new menu.
My six-course dinner ($268 per person) begins humbly at the restaurant’s entrance, with a steaming cup of mushroom soup to warm the belly. The broth has a complex depth achieved by blending eight varieties of mushrooms, with some even grown locally, like the bodhi mushrooms from East Coast Park and old-man mushrooms from Woodlands. I later learn that the old-man mushrooms are exclusively cultivated for Somma, just one of the many examples of the restaurant’s extensive R&D programme.
Photograph: Somma | Bread course
Bread and olive oil are indispensable to Italian cuisine, and Chef Mirko serves up the best of both in a lip-smacking bread course. A single grilled radicchio leaf sits amidst a luscious EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) emulsion, with rye bread to pair – scarpetta style, of course.
I can imagine the next course of hand-dived scallops being much too seafoody for some to endure, but it’s quickly balanced out with the bodhi mushroom, which makes a reappearance here as a meaty one-biter. A plum and pomegranate broth is served on the side, equal parts fruit, spice, and somewhat medicinal. And rounding off the course, a dehydrated plum with the faint hint of truffle ties it all together.
Chef Mirko’s Ditali pasta is equally complex, highlighting an ancient method of slow-cooking eggplant in clay. This allows the aroma of the skins to seep into the flesh, unlike oven-roasting, which is prone to burning the vegetable. But I’m more keen about the Spaghettone. This optional add-on comes at a hefty price tag of $68, but it is pretty much a staple at Somma. Each mouthful starts buttery and rich, with the natural sweetness of caramelised carrots, followed by a savoury depth lent by mantis shrimps, sea snails and Ossetra caviar.
Photograph: Time Out Singapore | Ditali pasta
Once the lamb is served, ditch the crockery and go in with your hands like I did. Even for someone whose first choice of protein isn’t lamb, I’ll confidently say this was my favourite dish off the menu. The rack is served on an amazake base made of Carnaroli rice, with accents of squid ink and bone marrow, but frankly, it’s perfectly devourable on its own. Pro-tip: peel apart each bone and get in between the crevices – it’s the only acceptable way to enjoy this dish to the fullest.
Photograph: Time Out Singapore
For dessert, Pastry Director Jeanette Ow reimagines the Italian soufflé with Puglian cheese and fig leaves. And between this and the pumpkin seed sorbet and toasted praline, it’s truly an impossible choice. Well, thankfully, both are served. For more cheese, consider adding on the cheese experience ($52), which is hosted in the restaurant’s wine cellar before the main course. The 15-minute journey takes you through four cheeses aged in-house, each paired thoughtfully with homemade beverages.
Photograph: Time Out Singapore | Cheese room
The Vendemmia menu at Somma runs till mid-December. Find out more and make a reservation here.
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