Christmas is coming and what makes it special for me is tradition and memory and wine has of course played an important part in many of my Christmases.
My very first taste of wine was a Christmas dinner sip of my dad’s sweet German wine (possibly ‘RM’ Liebfraumilch) in the late 1970s.
I would hate it now, but back then I thought it tasted sweet and magical, a window into the grown-up world; I’m guessing I was 9 as my father died the following September.
Memorable bottles include a 1993 Dom Pérignon drunk in 2017, a 1990 Dom. Tempier Bandol La Migoua, a 1978 Ch. Lascombes, a 2006 Les Echezeaux Grand Cru and a 2010 Ch. de Beaucastel.
There was also the time in my 20s when I bought an expensive bottle of Gevrey Chambertin on Christmas Eve. It was terrible, never buy wine like this on Christmas Eve unless you know the producer and the year.
There was the Christmas of 2020 when I indulged a little more than usual and decided the toys and gadgets from the Christmas crackers should all be mine,
I hid them, I just don’t remember exactly where, I’m sure they will turn up some day.
Suggestions this week are all memorable and might help you get a start on Christmas.
Do take note of the spirit of the week from Lough Ree Distillery, one of our best independents.
The 50ml sample will linger in my memory, it’s so good, I couldn’t spit it (it was 11am!).
Named for Portnaneena (‘wine port’) on Lough Ree, a lake I swam in growing up in Athlone at the other end of the lake from the distillery in Lanesborough, Co. Longford.
At €150 it is a bargain given that you could pay several thousand euro for a bottle of single cask Redbreast or The Macallan.
M&S Palo Cortado Sherry, Lustau, Spain €15
M&S Palo Cortado Sherry, Lustau, Spain €15
M&S Ireland
Palo Cortado is the rarest of all the sherries, made in very small quantities it starts life as a dry Fino but then gets aged as an Oloroso.
Lustau make this for M&S and it is a total bargain, almonds and fig aromas, rich and silky on the palate but bone dry on the finish.
Lingering toasted nuts and a tinge of charred oak, delicious. Also watch for M&S Madeira.
Carmes de Rieussec 2022 Sauternes, Bordeaux 375ml, €19
Carmes de Rieussec 2022 Sauternes, Bordeaux 375ml, €19
O’Briens
Rieussec is a premier grand cru classé Sauternes, with vines on the hill beside those of Château d’Yquem.
This is the second wine, honey tinged lemon-lime fruits, apricot and yellow peaches with a hint of wax.
A gorgeous texture, candied lemon and a brisk citrusy dry finish to clean the palate.
Try with some mature Cashel Blue or Lost Valley ‘Tomme’, guaranteed to linger in your memory.
Domaine Deray Frères Gevrey Chambertin 2023, Burgundy, €69
Domaine Deray Frères Gevrey Chambertin 2023, Burgundy, €69
Whelehans – whelehanswines.ie
Yes – this is pricy but given Burgundy prices it is almost a bargain, one of many excellent wines imported by Whelehan’s of Loughlinstown who deliver nationwide (can be bought as part of a mixed case).
Warm dark cherry and toasted aromas, ripe and indulgent on the palate, soft berries, pomegranate, red plums and a tinge of cranberry, long and luxurious.
Decanting advised.
Lough Ree “The Bridge” Portaneena Single Cask, 46% ABV, 70cl, €150
Lough Ree “The Bridge” Portaneena Single Cask, 46% ABV, 70cl, €150
A limited release of just 674 bottles this is something special.
A 15-year-old single grain distillate from Cooley aged in first-fill bourbon for 9 years, followed by Amontillado and PX casks.
Pouring a light mahogany brown with roast almonds, sweet sherry and leather aromas, a full-on sweet raisins, fruitcake and burnt sugars palate with spice and dark complexity, long and satisfying. Thrilling.
Dining and Cooking