Nicole Vezzola, a fourth-generation winemaker
Costaripa
Fourth-generation Costaripa winemaker Nicole Vezzola is passionate about raising the profile of the rosé wines of Italy’s Valtėnesi wine region.
More broadly, she aims to dispel prevailing myths that rosé wines are characterized solely by their color, are only suitable for drinking in summer, have no aging potential, and are only of high quality when produced in Provence, France.
Growing Up At The Costaripa Winery
Nicole grew up in Moniga del Garda, a small village on the southwestern shore of Lake Garda. The town is located in the province of Brescia in Lombardy, and is considered the heart of the lesser-known Valtènesi wine region.
She quips that fourth-generation winemakers are a dying breed with a significant drop-off after the third generation.
Her great-grandfather was only 28 years old when he began cultivating grapes on their small family estate. However, high-quality rosé still wines (called Chiaretto) had been produced there since 1896.
In a video conference with Nicole, she explains that there was no “business plan” that dictated the wines of Costaripa. Instead, she points to three variables that shaped their identity:
1- Mild Mediterranean Climate – Located on the shores of Italy’s largest lake, the area boasts 3000 hours of sunshine a year, morning and evening breezes, and winter temperatures that never drop below 7℃ (about 44 ℉).
2- Unique Terroir – Moranic soils on the rolling hills were formed by melting and moving glaciers. These resulted in 67 different types of soils, unique in their diversity, ranging from gravel to clay.
3- Indigenous Grapes – Groppello Gentile grapes, one of the 15 oldest varieties in Italy, are native to the Valtėnesi region. These rare grapes have similarities to Pinot Noir in terms of their spiciness and taste of almond at the end of the palate, producing wines that are structured, complex and highly drinkable.
At the urging of his own father, Mattia Velozza (Nicole’s father) completed oenological studies in 1972. Pursuing a career in winemaking, his travels to the Champagne region of France kindled his deep interest and appreciation for sparkling wines.
When he returned to Italy, Mattia became head oenologist at the Bellavista winery in the Franciacorta region. There, he created his first bottle-fermented sparkling wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes in 1973, using the “Metodo Classico.”
After four decades in the industry, the visionary winemaker returned to his deep roots in Lake Garda to helm Costaripa, dedicating himself to enhancing the quality of these wines and showcasing their unique character. A testament to Mattia’s enthusiasm for effervescence, sparkline wines currently account for half of Costaripa’s production.
Mattia built upon the foundation set by the two generations preceding him, setting the stage for his daughter, Nicole, and son, Gherardo, to contribute their skills, enthusiasm, and vision to the winery.
The Costaripa Difference
Costaripa winery and vineyards near the shore of Lake Garda
Costaripa
Like her father, Nicole Vezzola also spent some time in France, at the esteemed 500-year-old, family-owned Champagne Philipponnat. Nicole uses the term “rosé by viticulture” to describe the philosophy of creating a unique style and identity for each rosé wine.
She emphasizes that “Rosés are a unique type of wine, not just a color.”
Costaripa offers a broad portfolio of high-quality wines, but one of its flagship wines is RosaMara Chiaretto Valtenesi. Created by Mattia in the 1980s, it derives its name from his mother (Rosalia) and aunt (Mara). The blend includes predominantly Groppello grapes (50%) but also Marzemino (30%), Sangiovese (10%) and Barbera (10%) grapes.
RosaMara’s pale pink color is especially appealing, suggestive of its delicate vinification process. The grapes are only lightly pressed, which reduces the production but improves the quality. A special “tube within a tube” technology allows for more extended maceration (soaking the grapes with their skins). All Costaripa wines undergo fermentation and aging in old white oak barrels from Burgundy.
The winery is protective of the precious land that its ancestors have passed down to it. The vineyards are primarily tended manually, with sustainability top of mind.
The Nicole Vezzola Mantra: Rosé Is More Than A Color
RosaMara and Nicole Vezzola
Costaripa
Nicole explains that contrary to stereotypes, rosé wines are versatile, eminently drinkable and digestible, and easy to pair with a variety of foods, including seafood, shellfish, pastas, pizza, risotto, poultry, barbecue and spicy dishes.
Rosés are not just a warm-weather drink, she adds. They can be consumed throughout the year, and when stored properly, she says the wines can also age well.
Despite the challenging environment in the wine industry (including changed drinking habits and tariffs), Nicole is optimistic about the future. She speaks of the vital importance of respecting tradition and learning from the past while embracing new technologies.
The Lake Garda Wines project emphasizes collaboration between the five Lake Garda wine consortia as a way to promote growth for all. Similarly, rather than competing with the wines of Provence, Costaripa and other winemakers in the Valtėnesi region (Bardolino, Garda, Custoza, and Lugana) are collaborating with the French winemakers to share experiences and expertise.
Wine Tourism at Costaripa Winery
Boats docked in the port of Moniga del Garda on Lake Garda in the Italian region Lombardy.
getty
Located about two hours from Venice and three hours from Milan, Costaripa and other wineries in the Valtėnesi region welcome visitors.
Costaripa’s two-hour vineyard tours include cellar walks that explain its bespoke production process, followed by a tasting of four wines selected by the winery. Reservations for the tours, which are available in English and Italian, must be made at least 48 hours in advance and are priced at 25€ per person.
Nicole encourages wine tourists to explore the small towns and villages surrounding the lake in this less-touristed and more authentic Italian wine region. Food and wine enthusiasts will be drawn to the local wines, cuisine, and culture, with over 12 Michelin-starred restaurants on the southern shore of Lake Garda alone.
Visitors also enjoy camping, bicycling and boating on the magnificent lake. History buffs shouldn’t miss visiting the 10th-century Castello di Moniga del Garda (Moniga Castle), which has relatively intact walls encircling a town once threatened with invasions from Hungary.
Overnight accommodations include independent hotels, charming bed-and-breakfasts, and agriturismi (farm stays).
IF YOU GO
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