A mellow tune overhead made me notice the industrial ceiling pipes when I entered a new restaurant in Hampton’s historic Phoebus area.
Ella Fitzgerald’s “They Can’t Take That Away From Me” played as I admired the green velvet chairs and midcentury modern art. My eyes feasted on the scene, as the owners intended, but Italian food consumed my thoughts.
At Culaccino Italian Restaurant, “guests can enjoy an elevated dining experience with a boho feel, like something they might see in Richmond or New York City,” co-owner Gary McIntyre told me during my visit. He and Joe Illes opened Culaccino in August.
The two also own Deadrise, Fuller’s Raw Bar and Fishers Landing, to open soon at the Hampton Marina on Sunset Creek.
McIntyre said they saw an opportunity to explore and expand their vision for the local food scene.
“People can experience a curated menu without leaving the area,” he said.
The selection includes appetizers, pizzas, a handful of pasta dishes, and entrees such as chicken cacciatore and cioppino (stew) with shrimp, mussels, clams and calamari.
My three dishes were good overall, even though the grated pecorino made them salty. I would’ve preferred to opt out or moderate the amount at tableside.
The fried calamari arrived at the table smothered in it. Crispy yet tender pieces gave me joy, but the brininess prevented me from popping them into my mouth excessively like popcorn.
The formaggio, though, didn’t destroy my mood for the meatball pizza. The chef had sprinkled it on lightly as a finishing touch. It wasn’t needed. The pie met my expectations because it gave me the best of both worlds: flavorful sliced meat laid on top of gooey mozzarella, and fresh tomato sauce underneath spread across the crust, leaving room for the crispy edges. Each bite got better until my mouth needed a reprieve from the accumulation of saltiness.
My focus shifted to the lasagna Bolognese — a popular menu item — after I had a glass of water. It satisfied my craving for pasta and red meat sauce. Thin layers of ingredients packed goodness worth getting again. My only complaint: It left a salty taste.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com
If you go
Where: 9 S. Mallory St., Hampton
Hours: 4-9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: $8 to $18 antipasti, $19 to $34 pizzas, pastas and entrees
Details: Facebook
Dining and Cooking