Review by
Michael Cooper
Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·
20 Nov, 2025 05:00 PM3 mins to read
Michael Cooper has 45 wine books and several literary awards to his credit. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit.
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The selection of top New Zealand dry rieslings, at an average price of $32.80, cost far less than the imported ones. Photo / Getty Images
Why is riesling not more popular in New Zealand? Diametrically opposed in style to chardonnay, it is perfumed and steely. After a few years in the cellar, top bottlings unfurl into a magical mouthful.
I joined a group of wine professionals to blind taste (labels concealed) six of this country’s
rieslings, alongside six highly regarded rieslings from France, Austria, Germany and Australia. All the wines are marketed as dry in style, rather than medium-dry, medium or sweet.
Overall, the local wines tied in quality with those from overseas, at least on my scoresheet. However, the panel of 10 generally preferred the New Zealand wines by a small but significant margin.
There is more good news. The selection of top New Zealand dry rieslings, at an average price of $32.80, cost far less than the imported rieslings ($71.40). In short, these Kiwi rieslings are well worth buying.
Black Estate Damsteep North Canterbury Riesling 2023
★★★★★
Certified organic, this highly characterful wine was fermented and lees-aged in small, oval, stainless steel tanks, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. I jotted down: “Rich, characterful, peachy, slightly toasty flavours, deep and long.” (13% alc/vol) $35-$40
Hawkshead Central Otago Riesling 2024
★★★★★
This immediately engaging wine, grown at Lowburn and Bendigo, was handled mostly in stainless steel tanks. I wrote: “Elegant and vigorous, with very good intensity of peachy, citrusy flavours, slightly toasty notes showing a hint of development, and a tightly structured, long finish.” (13% alc/vol) $36
Misha’s Vineyard Lyric Central Otago Riesling 2023
★★★★½
Estate-grown and hand-harvested at Bendigo, this wine was handled in a fairly even split of stainless steel tanks and seasoned French oak barrels. “Energetic, with a sliver of sweetness and very good intensity of pure, youthful, citrusy flavours.” (13% alc/vol) $35
Palliser Estate Martinborough Riesling 2024
★★★★★
My second favourite (after Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad Riesling Trocken 2023, Nahe, Germany, $77.90). “Classic riesling. Intense, lively, very varietal. Scented, pure and penetrating. Will be long-lived.” (12% alc/vol) $30-$32
Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Riesling Dry 2024
★★★★
From mature vines at Waipara, in North Canterbury, this tank-fermented wine was hand-picked at an advanced level of ripeness. “Scented, full-bodied, with youthful vigour and strong, peachy, lemony, appley flavours. Needs time; best 2027+.” (13.5% alc/vol) $40 l
Wine of the week
Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling 2024
★★★★½
The best value wine of the tasting. “Finely poised and vigorous, with citrusy, gently spicy and toasty flavours that linger well.” (12.5% alc/vol) $21
Note: my brief tasting notes and star ratings apply only to this October tasting and may vary slightly from earlier reviews.
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