There are professionals in the industry who are passionate about production, while others prefer to focus on service. Then there are those who fall in love with every aspect of the wine world, from cultivation to production, all the way to sales and everything in between.
Despite his young age, Piero Fonseca, founder of The Standard Wine Co., is a versatile and highly skilled professional. The son of Alessandro Fonseca, a Florentine agronomist and owner of the historic winery Fattoria di Petreto, well-known for its white wines and noble-rot selections made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, Piero was born and raised among the vineyards that stretch along the Arno River valley, just a few kilometres from Florence.
“The estate has been in my family’s hands since 1871,” Fonseca explained, reflecting on the winery’s rich history. Their estate was one of the very first to produce a wine as distinctive as it was innovative, back in the early ’90s, when Tuscany was still trying to define a clear identity for its Chianti wine.
Fonseca fondly remembers his first steps in the vineyard as a child, driven purely by curiosity, and later as a teenager helping his father during the annual harvest. “I’ve always absolutely loved that time of year, despite the early mornings,” he joked, “Grapes are best harvested when they’re cool and lively. It was always incredibly special when we’d gather around the table at noon after the harvest to share stories and food.”
At 18, Fonseca had the opportunity to assist his father, both with production in the cellar and on the commercial side, when he was offered the opportunity to travel around Europe to represent the family’s wines at various trade fairs and industry events.
“Thanks to my father, I attended many tasting events and sampled an array of outstanding wines. I was lucky to receive such a strong foundational knowledge of both winemaking and wine commerce,” he said, “Still, I realised I didn’t want to follow in his exact footsteps.”
A lifelong fan of detective novels and influenced by his mother, who held a law degree, Fonseca earned a degree in Criminal Law in 2012, with the firm intention of becoming a police commissioner.
“It was April, and applications for the academy didn’t open until the following January, so I had quite a few months off,” he recalled, “I proposed to a close friend from Florence who had graduated with me that we take a work-study trip to Asia and Australia.”
Once in Sydney, Fonseca quickly found a job at the acclaimed Osteria Balla by Stefano Manfredi. There, he had the chance to reinvent himself as a sommelier, quickly falling in love with wine service and food pairing, thanks in part to the charismatic head sommelier Fabio Danzi, another Florentine and still a close friend today.
After obtaining his permanent residency and despite his deep love for being a sommelier, Fonseca decided to hang up his apron and return to wine commerce. Approached by a well-known Sydney-based distributor of Italian food and wine, he was offered the opportunity to manage their wine and spirits portfolio.
“Working as a sommelier is easier,” he claimed, “The customer service, the food and wine pairings, the relationships you build with people; it’s fun and stimulating.
“Being a wine merchant is amazing, because you’re always discovering new wineries and products, and it allows you to work between Italy and Australia. But there’s also the business side to manage [and] intercontinental shipping, which is always complex.
“There’s just more to keep track of, including taking care of a team. It goes far beyond just serving wine, but it brings its own kind of satisfaction.”
The Standard Wine Co. took shape during the pandemic, founded on the solid ground of an already well-established business.
Today, Fonseca, who has recently become a father, divides his time between two continents, continuing to represent his family winery within his portfolio and expanding his gaze toward other Italian and international producers.
Every now and then, though, he admits he feels that irresistible urge to pick up the apron and corkscrew again. As for moving back to Tuscany? “I still say Italy is home,” he shared, “I struggle to call Australia home, even though it’s a place that welcomed me and where I feel great. But you never know.”
Piero Fonesco’s pick for Il Globo readers: 2024 Fiegl Villa Dugo Pinot Grigio, DOC Friuli Isonzo
In the glass, it presents a bright straw yellow colour. On the nose, delicate aromas of lemon, pink grapefruit, Williams pear, Granny Smith apple, jasmine and a hint of freshly cut grass. On the palate, the wine is moderately warm, with a pronounced freshness and drinkability, lifted by juicy grapefruit and balanced by citrusy lemon notes. A strong note of white-fleshed nectarine dominates the finish, leaving a fresh, clean aftertaste.
A white wine that is undeniably enjoyable and easy to drink, with a pleasant, citrus-driven sapidity.
According to Piero Fonseca, these tasting characteristics make it particularly well-suited for pairing with kingfish crudo finished with a drizzle of good Italian olive oil. Personally, I also enjoy it with a wild herb frittata or with a classic Triestine-style prosciutto cotto in crosta (ham baked in a bread crust).
Dining and Cooking