How our tastes change. Back in the 1990s when I first discovered the joys of red wine I loved Australian shiraz, which seemed so far off and exotic, and throughout my twenties I was seduced by its soft, jammy, gluggable charms. Yet over time my tastes migrated from the ripe, sweet fruit of Oz towards the more restrained, savoury wines of the northern Rhône, where shiraz is known as syrah. Now my preferences are changing again and I’m more open-minded.
Clearly my own journey chimes with the national mood, for we still drink a colossal amount of shiraz. The grape was introduced to Australia by the Scotsman James Busby in the 1830s and has flourished ever since — according to Wine Australia, it’s still our favourite grape variety from down under. Last year the UK imported nearly 70 million bottles of it, compared with nearly 60 million bottles of chardonnay. Shiraz thrives on poor soils and loves heat, but despite its success in the warm climates of McLaren Vale and Barossa, there’s much more to Australian shiraz than richness and fruit. There is a range of styles and on a tasting trip to Victoria this year it was the shiraz grown in cool-climate vineyards that struck me most. The Wine Society’s 2022 Bannockburn Shiraz from Geelong (£25) is a case in point. It has plenty of rich dark fruit but also a restrained, savoury character on the palate.
From the Adelaide Hills, the 2023 Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Shiraz (Tesco, £15) delivers an explosion of blackcurrant and floral aromas and finishes with invigorating acidity. These reds pair beautifully with roast meats and stews. Here are six more to try.
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2022 Mount Benson Wave Crest Shiraz (14%)
Majestic, £10.50
This vibrant cool-climate shiraz oozes with red fruit and has a supple texture with a satisfying aftertaste.
2021 The Southerly Shiraz (14.5%)
Corney & Barrow, £10.99
There’s a European feel to this dark-hued example, which melds floral notes with a dry, savoury, earthy character.
2023 Finest Barossa Shiraz (14.5%)
Tesco, £11
A superb Barossa shiraz with a splash of cabernet sauvignon. Enjoy its juicy flavours of blackcurrant, plum and a hint of pepper.
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2022 Robert Oatley Semaphore McLaren Shiraz (13.5%)
Co-op, £11.75
Lovers of big, bold Aussie shiraz will relish this McLaren, which is bursting with silky dark fruit.
2021 Ebenezer & Seppeltsfield Barossa Valley Shiraz (14.5%)
Marks & Spencer, £15
Smooth and full-bodied, this has a velvety, oaky texture and warming, plush blue fruit.
2019 Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz (14.5%)
Hic! Wine Merchants, £26.50
This blend from Victoria’s oldest winery weaves floral aromas with plum, damson and spice.
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Will’s pick from The Sunday Times Wine Club
2024 Le Blanc de Pontfract Méditerranée
France (12%) £12.99
There’s more to Provence than rosé, as this zesty white shows. Steeped with floral aromas, it has a delicate peachy flavour and a refreshing dry finish.
Dining and Cooking