I visited an olive farm in Italy — now I know awful reason olive oil is so expensive

The price of olive oil has been soaring.

10:37, 23 Nov 2025Updated 10:38, 23 Nov 2025

I now know the awful reason olive oil is so expensive(Image: Jane Lavender)

Strolling through an olive grove in southern Italy, surrounded by trees, many of which were more than 200 years old, I was bathed in sunshine and calm with only the warm breeze floating through to branches to break the idyllic silence.

Frantoio Mafrica is a family-owned olive mill, which has been handed down from generation to generation. While it looks like little more than olive trees in a sunlight dappled grove to us visitors, to the owner they’re his family heritage. When he looks at them he sees his grandfather, who also worked the land.

The mill also uses donkeys to help transport the olives after picking, which is done in the traditional way by shaking the tree when they’ve 50 percent green and 50 percent black. And meeting the baby donkey who wanted nothing more than cuddles was one of the highlights of my entire trip to Calabria with Great Rail Journeys.

The baby donkey was a highlight(Image: Jane Lavender)

The family secret to processing the olives into the highest quality extra virgin olive oil was also unexpected. Rather than pressing the olives, they’re washed with water as they’re pulped to make sure every bit of Italian goodness goes into the oil. The process is all completed 24 hours after harvesting.

After trying the oil with bruschetta I can confirm it was like nothing available in your local Tesco: utterly delicious. Calabria is one of Italy’s major olive producing regions, with more than 50 types grown there including the only white olive. However, you would have had to have been hiding under a rock to be unaware of the soaring cost of olive oil.

The peaceful olive grove in the October sun(Image: Jane Lavender)The olive oil you get here is a world away from what you pick up in your supermarket

Frantoio Mafrica explained the heart-breaking reason behind this alarming rise, and it’s not the market forces behind the soaring costs of other food. In fact, it’s because huge swathes of Italian olive groves have been hit by a terrible disease, which has killed the trees, many of them hundreds of years old.

As olive trees take so long to grow, the devastation of burning huge numbers of the diseased and dead trees has been a terrible price to pay for a country and region so fiercely proud of its ‘liquid gold’.

Knowing the passion, work and care that goes into making the best olive oil – and the devastation this blight has caused – I’ll complain much more quietly at the price next time.