Kenninji Gion Maruyama () Kyoto, Japan

This was my first time experiencing Kyo-kaiseki, and because we were traveling with our 5-month-old daughter, we chose Kenninji Gion Maruyama for its private tatami rooms. We were seated upstairs, and the staff thoughtfully prepared a small makeshift bed for her, which made the entire meal surprisingly relaxing.

Below is the progression of courses, in the order shown in the photos:

1. Served on heated stone / onjaku)
   Matsutake mushroom, beef loin, chestnut, squid, taro, shimeji mushrooms, and ginkgo nut. Beautifully plated and a great start.

2. Mukōzuke (sashimi course)
   Kelp bass, tuna, and surf clam.

3. Soup Bowl
   Pike conger, matsutake, wax gourd, and pot-herb mustard with a subtle yuzu aroma.

4. Grilled Course
   Spanish mackerel with a Japanese citrus jelly.

5. Rice Dish
   Rice cooked with red beans, paired simply with sesame and salt.

6. Simmered dish
   Scallop, turnip, pumpkin, burdock root, and green bean in a dried-scallop broth.

7. Assortment of small delicacies
   Soy milk skin, prawn with grated radish, sweet green pepper, enoki, and edible chrysanthemum.

8. Penultimate Course
   White rice, miso soup, spicy pollock roe, and assorted Japanese pickles. This was so comforting and delicious that I happily accepted a second serving of both rice and roe.

9. Dessert
   Pear, persimmon with wasabi, and banana sherbet with peppermint.

Drinks

We tried their locally brewed Aotake sake, served in bamboo shoots. Fresh, light, and a perfect fit for the meal.

Service & Ambience

The restaurant has a serene, almost temple-like atmosphere. Walking through the small garden and being guided upstairs to a quiet private tatami room set the tone immediately. The staff brought an English printed menu, which made it easy to follow each dish and appreciate the ingredients.

Overall

As a first introduction to Kyo-kaiseki, this exceeded all expectations. The flavors leaned more subtle than what my palate is typically accustomed to, but the execution was meticulous throughout. The entire experience felt calm and refined.

For anyone traveling with a baby, the private rooms make this an ideal choice where you can fully enjoy the meal without worrying about disturbing other guests.