Numerous classic spots in Hollywood and West Hollywood have stood the test of time, like Dan Tana’s and Musso & Frank, but my favorite of them all, and maybe my most-visited Los Angeles restaurant of the past year, is Carlitos Gardel. This Argentine steakhouse, operated by Armenian brothers Gerard and Max Bozoghlian, has served the western edge of Melrose Avenue since the mid-’90s with expert grilled chops, homey empanadas, razor-thin beef carpaccio, and an extensive wine selection. The relatively small dining room exudes a timeless feel, with large mirrors, high ceilings, white tablecloths, and leatherbound menus that give it a very old-school Midtown Manhattan vibe.
After dinner, I like to walk around the building to the covered back patio, built during the pandemic, which has a cocktail bar for martinis and even a small cigar menu for post-prandial smokes.
The Bozoghlians’ mother, Azniv, was the restaurant’s original chef, and her dulce de leche meringue cake is a legendary dessert. Built like a geological feature and served in slices, it’s a delightful mix of fluffy, cakey, and sticky textures that works as the ideal finish.
Dining and Cooking