By Leo V. Kaplan
Before it was Gjoni’s, the building at 662 W. Grand River Ave. was Spagnuolo’s Restaurant. In the 1980s, it was the Polo Bar.
Many of Gjoni’s regulars have been regulars at the building since the Polo Bar days, owner Gjon Gjidoda said — and he’s glad to be the steward of a spot that’s important to Okemos locals.
“A lot of these customers that come in here, they’ve come in here since they were kids,” he said. “And they love it. I mean, once you get repeating customers, that tells you they love what’s being offered.”’
Gjoni’s Bar and Restaurant, an Italian-focused bar and restaurant, offers a full alcohol and espresso bar with gelato alongside pizza, burgers and sandwiches, salads and entrees like pan-seared steak or salmon. It opened Oct. 8 following Spagunolo’s closure in July. It’s more upscale than Spagunolo’s was, Gjododa said, and with more diverse offerings.
The name, Gjoni’s, is pronounced “Johnny’s,” as in Gjidoda’s first name, which is pronounced “John.”
The gelato bar in particular has been a hit, Gjidoda said.
Gjidoda, who grew up in Albania, said he is excited to introduce people to gelato because it was his version of ice cream when he was growing up. While similar to American ice cream, gelato is typically richer and creamier and usually made with a custard base.
The gelato is purchased from Bella Vita, a gelato maker known for its inventive flavors. The rotating flavors include traditional gelato flavors as well as fresh tastes like Dubai chocolate.
Gjoni’s menu has enough classic Italian fare to keep Spagnuolo’s regulars happy, but Gjidoda also added in other items like burgers, salads and even a full cocktail menu.
Asked why he added what he did all that, Gjidoda laughed.
“I’ve been in the restaurant business for a very long time,” he said. “I know what people like.”
Gjidoda has been operating Coney Island restaurants in the area for more than 30 years, including Dan’s Coney Island on Pennsylvania Ave. He owned the former Hannah’s Coney Island in Hannah Plaza too.
He’s never operated a restaurant like this, however.
“I’m enjoying it,” he said when asked about operating a bar. “It’s an experience that I didn’t have before. I’ve owned restaurants, but I’ve never owned one like this.”
Gjidoda said operating a bar has always been a goal for him. When his real estate agent told him about the building, he jumped on it.
It’s closer to home for Gjidoda, who lives in Okemos.
That said, getting a bar and restaurant set up while also operating Dan’s Coney Island has been keeping him busy.
“It’s a lot of work,” he said.
What keeps him coming in, then?
“Family, kids, bills to pay,” Gjidoda said, ever straightforward.
But it’s clear from watching him smile as he talks about the new menu items, especially the cocktails and gelato, that he’s having fun with it as well.
Dining and Cooking