Across Bavaria, Lyon, the Côte d’Azur and his current home in Bordeaux, the flavours that linger in his memory show up in ways he does not always register. “Bavaria is discipline. The French Riviera is the pleasure of Mediterranean cuisine, sunshine on a plate. Lyon is the foundation of high-quality regional cuisine,” he says. “And finally, Bordeaux, where I live, and where I have a blast using all the talents I have learned.”

For someone with such a storied European background, his food philosophy remains grounded. When asked which detail makes the biggest difference to a dish, he does not hesitate. “Sauces are very important. Mastering them takes a lot of time. Also, vegetable cutting techniques, such as Scandinavian cuts, are essential.” It is the kind of craft diners rarely notice and the kind that makes a Michelin level kitchen what it is.

Dining and Cooking