Mamma Mia on Upper Piccadilly in Bradford city centre has been run by the Massimo family for 40 years.
I’m ashamed to admit that I’d never crossed paths with the restaurant despite the many recommendations that came my way.
That was until a wintry Tuesday night, when I wandered into the cosy and inviting restaurant – charmed by its warm, golden Hopper-esque hues that lit up the street.
Outside Mamma Mia (Image: Newsquest)
Mamma Mia has appeared numerous times in the T&A’s review section with reporters long before me describing it as “the next best thing to a trip to Italy” and “real heart-warmer”.
As a journalist, I love a good story. Mamma Mia’s has a story to tell of its own – a man who came from Naples, started working at an Italian restaurant on Lumb Lane and in the city’s factories, before saving up for a restaurant of his own.
Now, a generation later, Gianni and Nella Massimo have passed the baton to their son. The tables are regularly filled by the sons and daughters of customers who first visited Mamma Mia in the 1980s.
“We could be anywhere right now,” my husband told me.
For a cold midweek night, most of the tables were full.
I decided to take a slice of the restaurant’s early bird deal, where customers can get a starter and main for £20 and add a dessert for £5. It’s a price that seems almost unheard of in today’s world.
The funghi all’aglio (Image: Newsquest)
Before our starters arrived, a basket of fresh crusty bread was placed on our table. When they got something so simple right, I knew I was in for a treat.
For my starter, I chose the funghi all’aglio. The mushrooms were nestled in a creamy parsley and garlic sauce that could be likened to liquid gold. Light yet rich, with fresh garlic slices, it was a warming dish that I won’t be forgetting any time soon.
The slow cooked ribs in the rich, meaty barbeque sauce (Image: Newsquest)
My husband had the costine di casa – pork ribs cooked in the chef’s unique sauce. We later discovered from Gianni’s son, Leno, that the recipe is around 60 years old and based on the original Mamma Mia on Lumb Lane.
The funghi all’aglio, left, and costine di casa, right (Image: Newsquest)
The slow-roasted meat melted off the bone, and, mixed with the sweet and savoury flavours of the sauce, it made every tastebud come alive.
After spotting the authentic Italian pizza oven on the way to our seat, I was charmed away from my usual order of pasta and ordered the Mamma Mia.
The pizza oven (Image: Mike Simmonds)
The dough melted in your mouth while pops of flavours came in the form of salami, mushrooms, olives, ham, and peppers.
Opposite my plate was the Sicilia, featuring Neapolitan tomatoes, fior di latte mozzarella, chicken, pepperoni, red onions and fresh chillies. This left a beautiful peppery kick behind.
Natasha Meek tries the tiramisu, left, and the tiramisu, right (Image: Newsquest)
It felt like every item of the menu was made with love, as if we were in a Nonna’s kitchen.
After such a delightful experience, we were tempted by the dessert menu. A tiramisu and chocolate fudge cake arrived shortly after.
Chocolate fudge cake (Image: Newsquest)
The tiramisu was exquisite, the coffee-dipped savoiardi with the cream made for a moreish treat that I couldn’t get enough of.
The chocolate cake was rich and delicious.
The bill came to £50 (without a tip) and we left with full hearts and bellies.
It’s hard to explain what takes an Italian restaurant from good to great but it is easily encapsulated by a night at Mamma Mia’s in Bradford city centre.
Dining and Cooking