Bistro Sable takes you right back to happy evenings spent in white-tableclothed establishments surrounded by Gallic bric a brac.
It’s located in a lovely corner of leafy Canonbury, twinkling terrace lights and a cosy fire in the grate greet you as you walk in. There’s a chalkboard menu, and tables laid out with glinting glass and white napery.
At one end of what was formerly The Smokehouse, there’s a calm open kitchen overlooking a dining room full of muted chatter with plates of hearty food being delivered to the tables.
It’s the kind of place which inspires food envy – as you spot a wobbling cheese souffle, or dishes of rich boeuf bourguignon being set down in front of neighbouring diners.
We sipped on a frothy topped French Martini (£11) as we made our choices – a classic French onion soup for me, and a bowl of moules marinieres for him.
Before it arrived we were brought slices of rye baguette, crunchy cauliflower whipped butter and mini salami slices as a tasty amuse bouche.
When the soup came it was just as I hoped; rich beefy broth, sweet onions and melting cheese. It was swiftly despatched – as were the mussels with more slices of baguette.
Next we’d ordered a half of rotisserie chicken, the soft meat served in a creamy mushroom sauce that was a shade underpowered. But it came with vinegary dressed salad leaves and terrifically tasty French fries at a good value £25.
Should we have ordered the confit duck with lentils we spotted arriving at another table? Or the coquilles Saint Jacques? They did look good!
But the Dover sole – served with burnt butter, samphire and capers and a roasted lemon to squeeze over it was superb and at £45 could easily be shared.
We’d ordered French beans on the side, and an unnecessary but classic potato dauphinois that was sliced into a brick but melted like a dream.
There’s an extensive, well chosen wine list that favours French producers – my fish went brilliantly with a Petit Chablis.
On a trip to the loo I was eyeing the Tarte Tatin for two being shared at a table near the fire. The caramelised fruit was tempting but we plumped for a dollop of dreamy chocolate mousse topped with a cherry compote – and a cracking Creme Brulee that just about put us to bursting.
There is so much to like on this menu of comforting classics that we will just have to go back. As we headed home in the grip of a rainy wintry night we reflected that cosy French bistro are just what we need right now.
Bistro Sable is at 63-69 Canonbury Lane, Islington. www.bistrosable.co.uk
Dining and Cooking