It may be the butt of countless jokes and humorous references to the unpretentious wine drinkers of the 1980s, but our love affair with Blue Nun still has a lot to answer for. Such was the success of this simple, fruity plonk that the perception of all German wines as white and slightly sweet remains with us. Yet not only does Germany make some of the greatest dry rieslings in the world, but if you asked me which country I am most excited about when it comes to red wine, Germany would be high on the list.
The principal grape variety is pinot noir, known locally as spätburgunder. And there’s a lot of it. Germany is the third largest pinot noir-producing country after France and the US. The Oxford Companion to Wine reports that plantings in Germany have risen from 8,400 acres in 1980 to more than 28,000.
Why the rise in demand? Improvements in techniques and warmer summers have helped producers make riper, more approachable red wine. But there is also an enthusiasm for the style of German reds, which can be agreeably light in texture, with sappy red fruit and earthy, spicy flavours.
Down in the south, Baden is producing some world-class examples, some of which can rival those of Burgundy. Here you’ll also find the blauer lemberger grape (also known as blaufränkisch), which yields a dark, rich wine with high acidity and a peppery touch. But there are good reds to be found across the country in the Pfalz, Ahr, Franken and also in Rheinhessen, where bargains abound. Try Sainsbury’s 2023 Taste the Difference Rheinhessen Pinot Noir (£8.75), which has enjoyable red fruit, a savoury edge and a trace of smokiness. Here are six more to try.
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2023 Palataia Pinot Noir (13%)
Marks & Spencer, £10
This light, medium-bodied red from the Pfalz is bursting with violet and ripe summer berry. Enjoy it with autumnal stews.
2022 Dr Loosen Villa Wolf Pinot Noir (13%)
House of Townend, £11.69
From one of Germany’s top makers of white, this is a superb red that marries cherry with an earthy character.
2023 Louis Guntrum Pinot Noir (12.5%)
Waitrose, £16
Showing a lovely ruby hue in the glass, this has plenty of juicy red fruit with a pleasing hint of bitterness on the finish.
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2022 Martin Wassmer Markgräflerland Spätburgunder (13.5%)
The Wine Society, £16.50
A silky, savoury pinot with good smoky notes and succulent dark fruit.
2022 Baden Cuvée No 1 Klumpp (13%)
Yapp Brothers, £20.50
This inky red made from blaufränkisch is smooth and warming, with juicy berry, cherry, spice and vanilla.
2019 Jean Stodden J Spätburgunder (12.5%)
Virgin Wines, £22.99
There’s a spicy aroma to this wine reminiscent of mature burgundy, combined with a lingering, tangy finish.
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2024 Le Blanc de Pontfract Méditerranée
France (12%) £12.99
This part of France is better known for its red wines than its whites, but this sauvignon-based blend has delicate floral aromas, finishing clean and dry.
Dining and Cooking