December 6, 2025 — 4:00am
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Now there’s another reason to visit Australia’s most underrated wine region.
Rutherglen in North-East Victoria is known for big reds and fortified wines. In fact, it’s considered the global leader in the production of a rather unfashionable yet delicious fortified drop, muscat. For the more casual of wine drinkers, Rutherglen might never cross the radar.
The historic Victoria Hotel was built in 1868.By George Photography
But this place on the NSW border, 294 kilometres from Melbourne, has just taken the Best Pinot Gris/Grigio of Show trophy at the National Wine Show with De Bortoli Wines’ 2024 One Line Pinot Grigio. The fact that Rutherglen – better known for more niche product than such a mainstream drop – got the gong underscores why it’s most probably Australia’s most underrated wine region.
Mainly populated with generations-old family-run wineries that once solely leant into the traditional intense flavours and robustness produced by cold winters and hot summers, the Rutherglen wine industry, one of Australia’s oldest, is still respecting heritage while trying new things – and doing so to great success.
Expect a warm country welcome.By George Photography
Says Kate Halpin, co-owner of Rutherglen township’s historic Victoria Hotel, “We’re up to six generations of wine families here. Apart from that, the key difference from the likes of the Yarra or Hunter Valley is, these guys are the growers, they’re the farmers, they’re wine-makers, as well as the ones that are hosting you at cellar door. It’s almost completely vertically integrated. And they are so down to earth because they’re farmers at their core who are obviously very skilled wine-makers. You really notice the warmth and authenticity of that.”
It’s in the same spirit that Halpin and her husband, Matt Halpin, (along with family investors) have reimagined the Victoria Hotel, the holder of Victoria’s longest continually operating hotel licence.
Smack in the middle of Rutherglen’s main street, the pub was, as Kate Halpin put it, “in need of love”.
The restaurant is led by the Australian Hotels Association’s 2025 Victoria Chef of the Year, Brendan Anderson.Georgie James
The Halpins poured the love in, as well as hard work and multi-millions of dollars over four years, making the hotel a place of fine accommodation, great food at a restaurant led by Australian Hotels Association Victoria’s 2025 Chef of the Year, Brendan Anderson, and quality wines on a list exclusively sourced across North-East Victoria. “We’re fiercely local,” Kate Halpin says.
Maintaining the150-year-old heritage architecture of their property was important, too, as they set about creating 14 beautifully appointed suites, including two dog-friendly options on the ground floor and a fully accessible suite.
A revamped bedroom at the Victoria Hotel.By George Photography
While the building work was the domain of an architect and expert construction team, Halpin took care of the interior design herself.
“We’re a modern interpretation of a country pub, but a little bit more elevated,” she says. “There’s a bit of unexpected sophistication. It is a little bit luxe, but it still has the village atmosphere with the warmth of country hospitality.”
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Kate Halpin says that “cycling tourism is huge” in the region thanks to a network of new trails. To meet that demand, the Victoria Hotel’s original stables are being converted into secure bicycle storage.
The area also hosts the Tour de Vines.
Low-key, sustainable Rutherglen cellar door Scion.Georgie James
But of course, people come for the wines – an increasing number, Halpin says – as the Rutherglen makers continue to create award-winning and unique vintages. There’s also a buzzing food scene amid the cellar doors and main street eateries.
“What’s great about Rutherglen is, we’re a great meeting place for Melburnians and Sydneysiders or Canberrans,” she says. “Melbourne is three hours’ drive, Sydney: six.
“So groups can converge here for special celebrations or holidays.”
See victoriahotelrutherglen.com.au
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Julietta Jameson is a freelance travel writer who would rather be in Rome, but her hometown Melbourne is a happy compromise.Connect via email.From our partners
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