The wine world didn’t stop spinning in 2025 — and neither did I. The year began with a dash through the icy vineyards of Bordeaux, and now I’m navigating the gumtree-lined estates of South Australia. Thousands of wines have been sampled and quite a few air miles clocked up. So what have I learnt?
Time to try Poland, Moldova and Armenia
The wine route continued to expand in 2025. The combination of a warming climate, advances in technology and a new generation of ambitious winemakers has driven a wave of plantings in countries as far flung as Japan, Finland and Brazil. Our supermarkets are sniffing out the best examples, but it’s in eastern and central Europe that I’ve noticed the most activity. This year I’ve tasted compelling wines from Poland, Moldova, Armenia, Romania and Bulgaria. Try the berry and plum-infused 2022 Kamil Barczentewicz Pinot Noir from Poland (The Wine Society, £22), or Aldi’s Rara Neagra (£7.99), a Moldovan red that marries dark fruit with creamy oak. The indie merchants have been busy too, with crackers such as the 2023 Yerevan Winemaker’s Blend Red from Armenia (Tanners, £12.60).
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Mid-strength is having a moment
The dual effects of the government pegging duty rates to alcohol content and increased demand for lighter-textured wines have led to a welcome reduction in alcohol levels. Some supermarkets are now offering “mid-strength” ranges, with wines coming in at about 9 per cent, and I’ve found gems including Sainsbury’s vibrant, grassy 2024 Coolwater Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (9.5 per cent, £8.75).
The Aussies see the light
Meanwhile, one of our largest importers, Australia, has been embracing light, elegant wines produced in a cool-climate style, a trend underlined during two recent tasting trips down under. There is far more to Aussie products than heavy shiraz and oaky chardonnays. In Victoria, for example, a swathe of estates are producing whistle-clean wines with lively acidity and an emphasis on fruit rather than oak.
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Get along to Geelong
The Geelong region in Australia produces fresh, fruity shiraz in the Rhône style
SHUTTERSTOCK
One interesting area in Victoria that I discovered this year was Geelong. It wasn’t just the pinot noirs and chardonnays there that impressed me but the local take on shiraz, which was fruity but also fresh and clean with just a suggestion of spice. This was akin to the style you might find in the northern Rhône yet very much Geelong’s own expression, with a real wow factor. Try the generous, peppery 2020 Scotchmans Hill Shiraz (House of Townend, £25).
Mencia and pais: new grapes to know
Two grape varieties that have caught my attention over the past 12 months are mencia and pais. Mencia, grown extensively in northwest Spain, is popular with many sommeliers and I had thought of it as fresh and fruity — an easy-drinking alternative to pinot noir. On reflection that does the grape something of a disservice as it can deliver powerful, earthy reds. Try the plummy 2022 Kew Gardens Mencia from Bierzo (The Sunday Times Wine Club, £13.99).
Similarly, I used to think of the Chilean grape pais as a bit of a workhorse, but we’re seeing some delightful examples packed with summery red fruit.
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Buy in Bordeaux
Back in Bordeaux, it may never be a better time to buy. Such is the level of market suppression that spectacular vintages such as 2010, 2016, 2019 and 2022 can be acquired at or even below their original release prices. For those who bought them on release, that really is a lesson well learnt.
Dining and Cooking