A bargain of a Clare Valley Riesling

Living in an area that produces tons of different Rieslings is a huge privilege, but, where I live at least, a considerable amount of it gets purchased by locals/vacationers. While amazing, one huge drawback is that most of the space on our shelves for Riesling is taken up by local wineries, causing people to miss out on some truly wonderful wines.

Coming from Lodge Hill in Australia's Clare Valley, this is a textbook example of what classic Riesling country down under can be, and this wine just effortlessly delivers. While it may not be the most well known or sought after example of Clare Valley Riesling, it does a fantastic job of expressing what the they're all about.

2022 Jim Barry "Lodge Hill" Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia– Grown on calcium-rich soils at an elevation of 480m, the Lodge Hill Riesling is able to benefit from the same South Australian sun that creates dynamite cabs and shiraz without having to sacrifice the acidity and complexity that Riesling gains in colder climates with slower, longer growing seasons.

On the nose, lime and lime peel jump out of the glass, followed swiftly by the distinct synthetic rubber the region is so well known for. Grapefruit, lemon oil, an herbal note reminiscent of chives and a touch of slightly underripe kiwi begin to reveal themselves immediately afterward. Curiously, the strong notes of apple and melon often associated with Riesling are remarkably faint if not missing here, with their place seemingly occupied by an increased minerality.

On the palate, lime juice, lime peel, grapefruit juice, tangerine rind, and star fruit are the first to charge across the tongue. As one might expect, the acidity, though still high, isn't nearly as strong as the nose seems to suggest which is actually quite enjoyable. The citrus, stoney minerality, and slight herbaciousness help to trick your mind into believing the acidity is doing a lot of the heavy lifting without necessarily searing your tongue off. White flowers, kiwi skins, and white plum skins arrive moments later leading to a gorgeous dry finish with an excellent crispness that seems to just permeate through everything like a skewer.

Despite being nowhere near the highest levels of what Australian Riesling is capable of, for the money, I'd happily drink this wine all the time.