1986 Pol Roger ‘Sir Winston Churchill’

Based in Epernay and known for elegant sparklers, Champagne Pol Roger is an iconic producer. Despite being classified as negociant-manipulant (NM) like the big houses, they’re family-owned and make more than half of their wine from owned vines, which leads to a more “artisanal” reputation than the most famous names in Champagne.

In 1975, they launched this Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill to honor the former British leader. The exact blend is a secret and changes each year, but it’s primarily Pinot Noir (for power) with some Chardonnay (for elegance).

Though 1986 was a “vintage year” back when Champagne had more issues ripening grapes (and producers were more picky), it isn’t considered a great vintage. Regardless, this is the flagship cuvee of a great producer, so I was excited to try it with some serious age.

Tasting Notes: got the third pour out of a magnum, and I was gladly surprised to see it still had a few lazy bubbles. Deep gold color. Nose of marzipan, brioche, some candied yellow fruit, and a bit of honey. Palate was structured more like a high-end white Burgundy than like younger Champagne, with only a bit of mousse hanging on. Long, complex finish that revealed a bit of tropical fruit, which I hadn’t initially perceived. Absolute showstopper.