It is Thessaly’s varied topography, microclimates and soils that encourage such a diverse selection of varietals, both indigenous (Xynomavro and Messenikola Black) and international, to flourish that keeps bringing Klearhos Kanellakis back to this intriguing region of Greek winemaking.
Thessaly’s winemaking tradition dates back thousands of years and it is thought winemaking started as early as 4000 to 3000 BC.
Fast forward a few thousand years and the region is fast becoming a growing tourist destination thanks to the picture-perfect island of Skopelos which is best known for being the main filming location for Mamma Mia.
Top sommelier Klearhos Kannellakis was able to share his passion for wines from the Greek region of Thessaly at the masterclass with leading buyers and sommeliers
It is also home to a varied and diverse natural landscape including more than its fair share of islands, gulfs, mountains, plains, rivers, oceans, and lakes.
One of its biggest attractions is the Unesco World Heritage Site of Meteora with its stunning rock formations and ancient monasteries. Its unique terroir helps produce PGI Meteora wines.
Away from the vast Thessaly plain lies the mountain ranges of Olympus, the mythical home of the gods, Agrafa and Pindus, whose vineyards enjoy a wide diurnal range. Warm, dry summers are followed by cold winters with most rainfall coming in January and February. In all the region covers 14,000 square kilometres of coastal land.
There are three PDOs (Protected Designations of Origin) in Thessaly – Rapsani, Mesenikola, and Anchialos.
Rapsani, located on the slopes of Mt Olympus, has slatey soils and cool nights, and is renowned for the quality and longevity of its red wines. It is probably the most well known of the three PDOs and its vineyards go up to 750m above sea level. This is where you can find Xynomavro, Krasato and Stavroto varieties.
Mesenikola, at lower altitudes, favours blends of local and international grape varietals, most notably Syrah and Carignan. This is where Mavro Messsenikola wine is produced from a blend of local and international grape varietals.
The Anchialos vineyards, which can be found by the Pagasitiko Bay coastline, are located in low vine growing area on the shores of the Pagasetic Gulf, and produce white wines from Roditis and Savatiano. They benefit from the cooling effects of the Aegean Sea. This is the area where Assyrtiko is most prominent.
Trynavos is the region’s biggest viticultural centre and is where Tsipouro -a grape distillate – is produced in big quantitiesy. The main varieties planted in Tyrnavos are Hamburg Muscat and Roditis.
Sharing experiences
Kanellakis was able to take a wide group of UK wine buyers, importers, wine merchants and sommeliers through an in-depth masterclass of the region and the chance to really explore what it might offer the premium on and off-trades in the UK.
Those taking part included:
Andrew Chudley, Davys Wine Merchants.
Majestic’s Andy Bray
Andy Bray, Majestic.
Harry Crowther, Tiny Wine.
Irena Nemeth from Cava Spiliadis
Irene Nemeth, Cavas Spiliadis.
Apervino’s Victoria Sharples
Victoria Sharples, Apervino.
Paola Tich
Paola Tich, Vindinista, John Dory, The Beach Sommelier.
Stefanos Kojotos, Maltby & Greek.
Alexandra Badoi, Maltby & Greek.
Gregory Andrews, DVine Cellars.
Amathus’ Jeremy Lithgow MW
Jeremy Lithgow MW, Amathus.
Nacho Campos from Les Caves de Pyrene
Nacho Campos, Les Caves de Pyrene.
Mattia Scarpazza
Mattia Scarpazza, sommelier, wine consultant.
Kanellakis was also able to share his experiences with some of his sommelier network and show them what Thesally and Greek wines can offer their restaurants. They included:
Fransesco Salis, Jumeirah.
Arish Salis, Hyatt Park.
Amrit Ghill, Ekstedt at the Yard.
Yosef Kanan, Great Scotland Yard Hotel.
Kyriakos Andreanidis, Ciel at Raffles.
Agatha Pereira.
Ana Tena, Roberson Wines.
Ipek Leni, wine events and PR.
Rio Hayashi, Andaz Hyatt.
They then had the chance to meet and taste wines from 11 producers from the Thessaly region who had travelled to London to showcase what the region means to them with wines they had specifically selected for the UK market. This part of the session was opened up to UK wine writers and influencers to also come and experience what Thesally wine region can offer adventurous wine drinkers.
Thessaly wineries
Eleven producers from Thessaly were able to show their wines to UK buyers and sommeliers
Geoffrey Dean picks out the wine highlights from each of the 11 producers that took part in the tasting all of which are looking for UK distribution apart from the ones mentioned.
Tyrnavos Co-operative Winery and Distillery in Larisa
Winemaker Anastasia Panagiotou revealed that 450 growers supply fruit to this co-operative at the foot of Mt Olympus. We tasted its Roditis 2024, the pink-skinned varietal that produces this white version (as well as a rosé). Citrussy notes with fresh acidity and decent length.
Roussas Wine in Volos
A 2024 blend of local variety Malagousia and Chardonnay was aromatic with notes of white flowers and rose petals, as well as delicate herbs such as basil. Medium acidity and buttery notes accompanied exotic grapefruit and peach notes.
Tibalexis Estate, Mikrothives Magnesia
Another 2024 white blend – of Assyrtiko (60%) and Malagousia (40) named ‘Kokarella’ (sea shell) – showed well. The former’s vibrant acidity and the latter’s aromatic richness combine to produce a beautifully balanced wine with finesse and freshness.
The Tiblalexis ‘Oino Chro’ 2019 red blend of Merlot (80%) and Xinomavro (20) has effortlessly absorbed 100% new oak (50% French, 50% American), and has soft tannins and voluptuous fruit.
Poultsidis Winery, Nees Karyes Larissa
Winemaker Christos Poultsidis from Poultsides Winery
Winemaker Christos Poultsidis crafts an impressive range from 50 acres of vines that have been certified organic since 2006. His ‘Silene’ Natural Orange wine 2024, made from Assyrtiko, spent 30 days on the skins before being aged in clay amphora for six months.
Equally impressive was his ‘Melirros’ 2021 sweet wine (14.5% abv), which was made from sun-dried Black Muscat grapes that were left to raisin for 30 days, and was aged for two years in barrel. It won Grand Gold at the 2024 Frankfurt International Trophy.
Imported by Edinburgh indie, Treasures from Greece.
Tsiardaka Winery & Distillery, Trikala
Winemaker Giorgio Tsiardakas is seeing UK distribution for his wines, which include a refreshing Assyrtiko/Trebbiano 2024 50:50 blend and a Limniona 2024. The latter is light in colour with a medium body and seductive red fruit, and is only 12% abv. Both wines represent good value, their cellar door price being €10.
K. Tsillis S.A, Trikala
Limniona (70%) and Syrah (30%) make a delightful, fresh rosé from the organically-farmed Theopatra Estate in the Meteora PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). Raspberry, strawberry and pomegranate notes give way to a herbal minty finish, with the Syrah adding a bit of spice. Tsililis also produce a fresh, floral Malagousia & Assyrtiko 2024 blend as well as a well-structured 2022 assemblage of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Syrah (40) & Limniona (20).
Domaine D.Migas, Tynavos
A dry Black Muscat 2024 was very drinkable, being fresh and medium-bodied with bright red fruit. A rich Chardonnay 2023 was more full-bodied, having undergone 50% malolactic fermentation and seen 30% new oak.
Domaine Zafeirakis, Tyrnavos
Christos Zafeirakis
Christos Zafeirakis is nicknamed ‘the face of Limniona’ after he rescued the varietal from virtual extinction. A fourth-generation winemaker, Zafeirakis has 15 hectares of biodynamically-farmed vines in Tyrnavos in the foothills of Mt Olympus, which include Malagousia, Assyrtiko and Chardonnay. His Terracotta Limniona 2021 (13%) is a superb example of the varietal, with spicey fragrance on the nose, alluring red fruit, freshness and a medium body. Kanellakis compared it to an Austrian Blaufrankisch.
Imported by Clark Foyster.
The masterclass and tasting was an opportunity for Thessaly producers to show how diverse their wines are
Katsaros Distillery, Tirnavos
The oldest distillery in Greece, dating back to 1856, Katsaros is renowned for producing Tsipouro, which is the Greek equivalent of grappa when not flavoured with anise. Katsaros make both versions as well as an aged unflavoured Tsipouro, which is kept in old Ladoux oak vessels for three years before release. Notes of plums, roasted almonds and vanilla were beguiling enough for the Amathus buyer at the tasting to take one back for retasting with a view to possible importation. The Katsaros Xinomavro 2022 likewise showed very well, exhibiting red cherry and black olive notes typical of the varietal. With high acid and tannins, as well as florality, it drew comparisons with a Barbaresco.
Rapsani Wine, Larissa
The Rapsani Chrysochou winery, which has 10 hectares under vine, showed its 2022 blend of Xinomavro, Krasato and Stavroto (a third of each). From dry-farmed vines at 500m, it was aged in 30% 225l barriques for a year.
Thymiopoulos Vineyards, Naoussa
Apostolos Thymiopoulos has won serious acclaim for the harmony, balance and tannin management of Xinomavro, which makes up 70% of his Rapsani Terra Patra 2022 (with Stavroto and Krasoto the balance). Somewhere between a fine Nebbiolo and a fine Pinot Noir is a good way to describe it. All his vines in Trilofos are farmed biodynamically.
The Wine Society imports his late-release Xinomavro rosé.
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