VOUVRAY, France — Today’s hike through ages-old vineyards comes with a little surprise.
Inside a secret walled garden, are grapes that have been kept for centuries – even beyond the blights that nearly decimated so many of France’s vines in the late 1800s.
But the true surprise comes after our afternoon hike – one of our daily hits of exercise and immersion in nature over our weeklong itinerary – we’re treated to a wine tasting that includes a sip from a vintage made from the hallowed grapes.
I’m on a trip hosted by Exodus Adventure Travels, along with about a dozen travel advisors from both Canada and the U.S.
The trip is a version of the company’s Loire Valley: Walks, Wine & Châteaux, and it takes us through some of the most storied and scenic parts of France.
The Loire Valley hugs the Loire river as well as the Cher river, with surrounding hillsides dotted with stunning castles and stately homes keeping company with vineyards ambling alongside. We start at Tours en route to Vouvray wine country, and on our first morning we begin to get our steps in. The hikes are easy, some through vineyards and farms and others through quaint villages. Our French guide Yannis keeps to the fairly fit pace of the group – and sturdy walking shoes or hiking boots are a good idea for the countryside terrain.
The stunningly beautiful Château de Chenonceau has seen its share of court intrigue
As we pass sun-dappled vineyards, Yannis tells us of the history of the area, and a preview of what’s to come. It sounds like magic: Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, gardens that were the playground of kings and queens, old-vines winemakers and chateaux with scandalous backstories.
The feeling that you get when you first lay eyes on Château de Chenonceau is beyond picture postcard perfect.
This Renaissance wonder, with its river-spanning great hall, has seen its share of court intrigue. From Diane de Poitier, the mistress of Henry II, to Catherine de Medici (Henry’s wife and queen), and later, Louise Dupin, who was a strong voice during the French Revolution, if these walls could talk. I could barely catch my breath, it was all so marvelous.
But it’s our stop at Amboise where I’m completely smitten. It is at Château du Clos Lucé, the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci, and a 10 minute walk from Amboise castle. The house is filled with replicated examples and drawings of da Vinci’s inventions and art inspiration. He lived here from 1516 – 1519, and his legacy in France is one different than it was in Italy. Here, he built deadly war machines and flying contraptions and shoes that allowed him to walk on water. The gardens are also splendid, with many replicas of his architectural ideas where you can experience them yourself. Walking across the many water features is facilitated by his bridge designs.
Learning just how much one manʻs genius, 500 years later, continues to influence design, art and modern thinking was, well, mind-blowing.
Château de Villandry is famous for its three tiers of terraced gardens
Mind-blowing, too, is the cuisine. Lunch is not a grab-and-go affair. This is an important meal for the French and they’ve perfected it. It is usually two or three courses, with wine, naturally, and whatever the chef is feeling that day, meaning local, fresh and indicative of the area. Fish and cheese often feature, as do terrines, rillettes and slow-cooked pork belly. And we don’t skip dessert. We walk it off with our daily hikes.
Hiking and slowing down rather than riding on a coach also allows for a more immersive experience. “At Exodus Adventure Travels, we love being able to share the active, adventure-filled side of travel with our travel advisor community and their clients, and we’re grateful for the partnerships we’ve built together,” says Wendy Mills, business development manager at Exodus Travels. “We truly value it – it feels like one big family here in Canada. With our focus on sustainability, it’s especially meaningful to collaborate with advisors who share our passion for creating memorable, responsible and enriching experiences.”
Dining and Cooking