December 23, 2025 — 5:00am
Save
You have reached your maximum number of saved items.
Remove items from your saved list to add more.
Save this article for later
Add articles to your saved list and come back to them anytime.
Got it
Bordeaux had been swirling in my mind for years. I’d long pictured myself wandering through its beautiful, sun-kissed old streets and sipping wine in the famous vineyards on the city’s leafy edges. Alas, when I finally make my dream trip a reality, it doesn’t stop raining for our entire 48-hour stay.
While summers in the south-west of France are typically warm and dry, spring can be more temperamental, especially when there’s a storm brewing in the Atlantic Ocean, as on our visit. But thanks to some (surprisingly) cool indoor attractions and (unsurprisingly) tantalising food and drink, we’re still enamoured by Bordeaux, which is just over two hours from Paris on the high-speed TGV train, and a port for embarking multi-night cruises along the Garonne and neighbouring Gironde and Dordogne rivers.
Bordeaux’s fortunes have been shaped by the Garonne River.Cyril Cosson/Bordeaux Tourism
When we aren’t braving the torrential downpours under an umbrella – we’re determined to see at least some of the city’s UNESCO-listed historic core – we’re sheltering at places that lift our dampened spirits. One such spot is Au Bistrot, a buzzy, Gallic corner bistro opposite the Marche des Capucins, a gritty, covered neighbourhood market that dates from 1749 and has a mix of fresh produce stalls and down-to-earth eateries.
This Saturday lunchtime, every table at Au Bistrot is taken – by the French, by the sounds of it –so we’re seated at the zinc bar overlooking the steamy, smoky open kitchen, where chefs concoct classic regional fare like veal kidneys, duck breast and saddle of rabbit. Cheered by glasses of Bordeaux’s fruity, full-bodied red wines, we tuck into dishes like artichoke heart, braised beef cheek and roasted pigeon with grilled vegetables and generously stacked baskets of sliced baguette.
Marche des Capucins in Bordeaux.Sara Soulignac
Brolly up, we walk off lunch on Bordeaux’s handsome riverside promenade, pausing by the rain-lashed Miroir d’eau, a 3450-square-metre reflecting pool. Later, we find respite from the elements and more flavoursome cuisine at La Boca, a trendy food hall and events hub on the site of a former abattoir. Serving everything from tangy oysters and Breton crepes to rotisserie chicken and Indian curries, it’s next door to La Meca, a multidisciplinary arts venue in one of Bordeaux’s standout contemporary buildings, fashioned by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels.
La Meca is one of Bordeaux’s most striking contemporary landmarks.OTCBM
Even more eye-popping is the Cite du Vin, a paradise for oenophiles in a curvaceous waterfront landmark by Paris-based design firm XTU. Immersive galleries and workshops plunge you into the history of wine in Bordeaux and beyond. With the weather scuppering our Sunday winery-hopping plans in nearby Saint-Emilion, we also book a tasting experience here, sampling different tipples tailored for each season. General admission also includes a drink at the eighth-floor Belvedere. Apparently, it offers excellent 360-degree Bordeaux vistas. Not today. We can barely see anything through the gloom.
La Cite du Vin is a paradise for wine lovers.Teddy Verneuil
Reliably good viewing in all conditions, however, is Bassins des Lumieres. Opened in 2020, it’s the world’s largest digital arts centre, spread across a mammoth World War II submarine base where the Germans docked their U-boats. Exhibitions change annually. We view iconic paintings and scenes – from exotic Eugène Delacroix pieces to Egyptian pyramids and pharaohs – illuminating walls, ceilings and pools as music from Giuseppe Verdi, Hans Zimmer and Massive Attack thunders around us.
Related Article
We check out another repurposed military site on the other (right) bank of the Garonne. Sprawling on former barracks near Bordeaux’s botanical gardens, the Darwin eco-district has various outdoor spaces – decorated with quirky sculptures and impressive murals – but thankfully ample cover, too, with galleries, fashion and craft shops, hangars for yoga and skateboarding, a coffee roastery and a boulangerie crafting irresistible pastries.
Drying off, with croissants and cortados, we agree Bordeaux hasn’t exactly lived up to our expectations. We’ve walked less than we wanted, taken more trams and Ubers than planned, and our holiday snaps are rubbish (too grey, too dark). But we improvised and had fun. We’ll return one day – hopefully when the sun’s shining.
THE DETAILS
FLY
You can fly to Paris from Sydney and Melbourne with Emirates via Dubai and take a connecting flight to Bordeaux. Or take a train from Paris Gare Montparnasse to Bordeaux Saint-Jean. See emirates.com and sncf-connect.com
STAY
Centrally located, Mama Shelter Bordeaux hotel has rooms from about €111 ($200). See mamashelter.com/bordeaux
TOUR
A three-night stay in Bordeaux is included on Albatross’ 19-day La Grande France 2026 tour, which begins in Paris and ends in Nice. There are departures in May, June, August and September. It’s priced from $15,887 per person (twin) and $20,887 (solo). See albatrosstours.com.au
MORE
visiter-bordeaux.com
france.fr
The writer paid for his own trip.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.
Save
You have reached your maximum number of saved items.
Remove items from your saved list to add more.
Steve McKenna is based in the UK, but is usually drawn to sunnier climes. He has a special affection for Mediterranean Europe, south-east Asia and Latin America.Traveller GuidesFrom our partners
Dining and Cooking