Alain Ducasse’s gougères are light and ethereal, with airy centers and perfectly crisp exteriors.Freshly shaved nutmeg adds a warm, spicy layer that is delicious with the nutty Gruyère. This recipe is perfect for make-ahead hors d’oeuvres: Store the baked gougères in the freezer, then reheat in the oven to serve.
Legendary French chef Alain Ducasse once served these gougères at his now-closed restaurant at the Essex House in New York City. The tiny Gruyère-enriched pastry puffs are always a hit as canapés or appetizers; pair them with a Kir cocktail, the traditional accompaniment in Burgundy (where gougères are thought to have originated), or with a white or sparkling wine.
Tips for the perfect gougères
Gougères are made with pâte à choux, the same distinctive pastry dough used for eclairs and profiteroles. You’ll bring butter, milk, and water to a boil, then stir in the flour while it’s over the heat and cook the mixture briefly. “Gougères puff up in part because of the magic of the eggs,” former F&W editor Tina Ujlaki explained in a piece accompanying the recipe, so add them carefully: Cool the dough for a minute first (so the eggs don’t scramble!) and make sure that each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next.
When making a larger batch of gougères, try to use baking sheets of the same weight so that everything cooks evenly. If using two oven racks, Ujlaki adds, “always switch baking sheets or pans from top to bottom and also from front to back halfway through cooking.” Silicone baking mats can also be helpful to prevent burns.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
When making the choux pastry, don’t worry if the batter separates and looks curdled at first when you begin adding the eggs; keep beating, and it will come together nicely.
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