Yesterday Ryan Sutton reviewed Gabrielle Hamilton’s classic, Prune, and Robert Sietsema reviewed Botequim, Marco Moreira’s Brazilian restaurant beneath The Fourth. Now here’s a roundup of the rest of the week’s reviews.
Adam Platt, still stinging from getting kicked out of ZZ’s Clam Bar, checks out the latest from Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, Dirty French: “[M]any of the most successful recipes tend to come during the hors d’oeuvre portion of dinner, before the relentless heaviness of the cooking sets in. In addition to berbere spices, the crunchy-topped roast clams are garnished with almonds and gouts of brown butter, and if you order the $24 foie gras terrine, you’ll find that it’s been wrapped, ingeniously, in a warm sleeve of brioche dough and brik pastry and dusted with tiny flakes of burnt lemon powder.” Two stars. [NY Mag]
Tejal Rao visits Keith McNally’s Bowery bistro, Cherche Midi: “Lobster ravioli ($28) was tucked under a blanket of ginger beurre blanc and piquillo peppers, that could have been stitched with the phrase, “I [heart] the 90s.” And while it tasted good, it had the look of something you’d polish off at the front of the airplane.” Her pro tip: go for the specials. Two stars. [Bloomberg]
THE ELSEWHERE: Amelia Lester likes most of Justin Smillie’s California cooking at Upland. Gael Greene runs down a meal at her “favorite Indian restaurant,” Tulsi.
THE BLOGS: On The Infatuation, Calais Zagarow complains that Arrogant Swine is not authentic, while Chris Stang finds Il Buco Alimentari as good as ever under its new chef. The Pink Pig dines on mostly chicken at Torishin, Chopsticks + Marrow tries out a large format Korean goat feast at Ban Ga Ne, Goodies First eats arepas, oysters, and chaat around Queens, NYC Foodie visits King Bee, NY Journal is pleasantly surprised by By The Hudson, The Food Doc runs down Alex Stupak’s latest Push Project dinner, a collaboration with Rick Bayless, and Chekmark Eats finds ABC Kitchen as solid as ever.
Delaware and Hudson hosts a 38-seat restaurant and a 35-seat tavern in Williamsburg, Brooklyn serving regional American food from the Mid-Atlantic states.
Dirty French is a New York bistro created by Major Food Group’s Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick.
Dining and Cooking