As food editors, we see an awful lot of recipes cross our desks over the course of the year. So who are the chefs we rate and which of their dishes make it into our own repertoire? Which are the cookbooks we swipe to take home? Here’s our pick from the past 12 months.
Café François has to be one of my most visited restaurants. Not just because I always find an excuse to order its très chic “meal deal” (a martini and fries for £10), but also because of this chicken, which comes in the most delicious jus and is best enjoyed with a pile of chips.
Serves 4
Prep: 20 mins. Cook/rest: 60 mins
Ingredients
• 1 small chicken, about 1.4kg
• 50ml olive oil
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 10g rosemary, chopped
• Salt and pepper
• 300ml chicken stock
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 10g parsley, chopped
• 10g capers
• Zest and juice of half a lemon
• 30ml olive oil
Method
1. Make sure the chicken is at room temperature before cooking. Preheat the oven to 220C fan/gas 9.
2. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, chopped garlic and rosemary. Rub this all over the chicken, then season with salt and pepper. Place in a roasting dish skin-side up.
3. Roast for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven to 160C fan/gas 4 and cook for a further 20 minutes, basting occasionally. To test if the chicken is cooked, insert a knife just above the thigh and check the juices run clear. Remove the chicken from the tray and leave to rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting into quarters.
4. Add the chicken stock to the hot roasting dish, bring to the boil and reduce by two thirds. Add the remaining ingredients to make a light herby jus. Serve with the roast chicken.
Citrussy chicken rice with fennel
By Emma Petersen, author of Healthyish
This dish has become a midweek go-to in my house, in part because it takes less than 40 minutes to cook, but also because it’s one of those dishes that tastes even better the next day.
Serves 4
Ingredients
• 640g skinless, boneless chicken thighs
• Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
• Juice of half an orange
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• Salt and pepper
• Olive oil
• 1 fennel bulb (reserve the fronds for the garnish), stalks removed and bulb cut into wedges
• 1 onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• A handful of pitted green olives, halved
• 250g easy-cook basmati rice
• 600ml chicken stock
• Juice of half an orange
• Juice of half a lemon
• A handful of roughly chopped parsley
• 20g crumbled feta, to serve
Method
1. Pat the chicken dry with kitchen roll, then place in a mixing bowl. Add the lemon zest and juice, orange juice, mustard, garlic, thyme and a good pinch each of salt and pepper. Toss the chicken to coat it evenly in the marinade.
2. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large lidded frying pan over a medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, carefully add the chicken thighs along with any residual marinade. Cook the thighs for 4-5 minutes on each side until they are nicely browned and about 90 per cent cooked through. Remove from the pan and set aside.
3. In the same pan, adding more oil if necessary, sauté the fennel before adding the onion and garlic, cooking for 3 minutes until softened.
4. Stir through the olives and rice until the rice becomes well coated with oil. Then pour in the stock, orange and lemon juices and season with salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
5. After the initial 8 minutes of cooking time, the rice should be more than halfway cooked. Now you can stir in the parsley. If the mixture starts to look too dry at this point, add an additional 100ml water from the kettle. Nestle the chicken thighs back into the pan, cover and cook for another 5 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed, the rice is tender and the chicken is fully cooked through.
6. Top with crumbled feta and garnish with the reserved fennel fronds.
• Read more restaurant reviews and recipes from our food experts
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Polenta, braised lamb and olives
By Oliver Gyde, head chef at Juliet
You might not be able to make it to Giles Coren’s favourite bistro, Juliet in Gloucestershire, but you can make recipes like this from the restaurant, which he gave perfect tens across the board.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
• 2kg lamb shoulder
• Sea salt and black pepper
• Olive oil, for frying
• 20 large shallots, sliced lengthways
• 1 head of garlic, sliced
• 3 celery sticks, chopped
• 2 rosemary sprigs, chopped
• 1 tbsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp crushed chillies
• Splash of white wine vinegar, ideally chardonnay
• 200ml white wine
• 1 litre chicken or lamb stock
• 100g small black olives
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish
• 1 packet polenta
• Olive oil, a knob of butter or grated parmesan, to finish (optional)
Method
1. Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy-based casserole dish, sear the lamb in a little olive oil over a medium-high heat until browned on all sides. Remove and set aside.
2. In the same pan, add the shallots, garlic and celery. Cook gently for 20 minutes until softened and lightly golden.
3. Add the rosemary, oregano and crushed chillies. Deglaze with a splash of white wine vinegar, then add the white wine and reduce by half.
4. Return the lamb to the pan. Pour in the stock and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook over a low heat (or in a 160C fan/gas 4 oven) for 2½-3 hours, until the lamb is tender and pulls apart easily.
5. Lift out the lamb and leave to cool. Once cooled, strip the meat into long threads. Add back to the sauce and stir in the olives and chopped parsley. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
6. Cook the polenta according to packet instructions. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, a knob of butter or grated parmesan, plus wilted greens.
7. Spoon the polenta onto warmed plates. Top with the lamb and its sauce. Garnish with extra parsley and serve.
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Olive oil chocolate mousse
By Tony Turnbull
Olive oil was the ingredient of the summer (drizzled over ice cream, stirred into a martini), but I make this ridiculously easy olive oil chocolate mousse all year round.
Serves 6
Ingredients
• 300g dark chocolate
• 6 eggs, separated
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Sea salt
Method
1. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks.
2. Once the chocolate is melted, remove from the heat and whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time. Then whisk in the olive oil.
3. Stir a spoonful of the egg whites into the mixture to slacken it, then gently fold in the rest until there are no streaks. Transfer to a serving dish or dishes and leave in the fridge for at least 4 hours. Serve with sea salt and extra oil, if liked.
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Spanakopita
By David Carter, chef-owner of Oma
David Carter can do no wrong in my eyes. He opened the Greek restaurant Oma in Borough Market in London almost two years ago. It already has one Michelin star and remains a favourite. This riff on the traditional spinach and feta pie is a must-order along with his fluffy flat breads.
Serve as part of a mezze
Ingredients
• 1 shallot
• 50g butter
• 300g spinach, chopped
• 10g flour
• 50ml milk
• 50g double cream
• 1 tbsp soft herbs such as oregano, thyme or marjoram
• Pinch of nutmeg
• 1 tsp salt and a pinch of white pepper
• 50g feta
• 20g grated parmesan
• Flatbreads, to serve
Method
1. Sauté the finely diced shallot in the butter until soft. Add the spinach to the pan, stirring until wilted. Cook to reduce until the liquid has nearly evaporated.
2. Make a roux by whisking in the flour, then gradually add the milk and double cream, stirring well.
3. Cook gently until the mixture is softened and reaches the desired creamy consistency, then stir in the herbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
4. Crumble in the feta, add the mixture to an ovenproof bowl and top with the parmesan. Finish under the grill until a slightly brown crust forms, then serve.
Rotisserie chicken and veg pot pie
By Jon Watts, author of Speedy Comfort
The rise of tender, juicy rotisserie chicken restaurants has been my favourite food trend of the year. Next time you pick one up, turn it into this golden puff pastry pie. It’s also a great way to use up leftover turkey
Serves 4
Cook time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
• 30g butter
• 30g plain flour
• 500ml chicken stock
• 350g cooked chicken, shredded
• 250g mixed frozen vegetables
• 100g crème fraîche
• 2 tsp dried mixed herbs
• Salt and black pepper
• 320g ready-rolled puff pastry sheet
• 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 220C fan/gas 9.
2. Put the butter, flour and stock in a saucepan and cook over a medium-high heat, stirring with a whisk continuously until it thickens into a smooth sauce.
3. Add the chicken, vegetables, crème fraîche and mixed herbs. Bring to the boil, then turn off the heat. Check the seasoning.
4. Transfer the mixture to an ovenproof dish. Lay the pastry over the top, pressing it around the sides of the dish with a fork to seal. Cut 2 slits in the pastry to help steam escape and decorate with score marks, if you like.
5. Brush the pastry with the egg yolk and bake in the oven for 20 minutes, or until golden brown on top and bubbling inside.
6. Leave to stand for a couple of minutes before serving.
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Cauliflower cheese
By Ruth Hansom, chef-owner of Hansom
Yes, I know you probably know how to make cauliflower cheese, but everything Ruth Hansom does is a lesson in perfection, and using the whole head rather than florets updates a childhood favourite into a dinner-worthy dish.
Serves 6
Ingredients
• 1 onion, peeled and diced
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 cloves
• 500ml milk
• 1 cauliflower, leaves removed
• 50g butter
• 50g plain flour
• 200g grated cheese
• 1 tsp English mustard
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
Method
1. Place the onion, bay leaf and cloves into a large-medium saucepan and pour over the milk. Place on a low simmer and allow to infuse for at least 20 minutes.
2. Place the whole cauliflower into the hot milk and cook until a knife goes in with ease. Remove and place in an ovenproof dish. Strain the milk into a jug (keep the onions for another recipe).
3. In another pan, melt the butter and then add the flour. Stir until combined and a smooth paste is formed. Slowly add the milk, stirring continuously to avoid lumps forming, while over a low heat.
4. Once all the milk is added, keep on the heat for a further 10 minutes to allow the flour to cook out. Add half the cheese and allow to melt into the sauce. Stir in the mustard and season to taste.
5. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower and finish with the remaining cheese. Place in a hot oven until golden and bubbling.
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Asparagus with fonduta
By Yohei Furuhashi, chef at the Lavery
Serves 4
Asparagus rewards simple cooking, especially at the peak of the English season, and all I normally want is salt, pepper and melted butter. But Italian fonduta, which is a bit like a cheesy hollandaise, is a great way of ringing the changes and is barely any more difficult to make.
Ingredients
• 2 egg yolks
• 350g crème fraîche
• 60g parmesan, grated, plus extra for serving
• 2 bunches of green asparagus
• Sea salt
Method
1. In a heatproof mixing bowl, combine the egg yolks, crème fraîche and parmesan. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the water does not touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir continuously until the mixture thickens slightly to a loose custard consistency.
2. Blanch the asparagus in salted water for about 2 minutes, depending on the size of the spears. Serve immediately on the fonduta sauce, garnished with extra grated parmesan.
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Crab linguine with chilli, garlic and lime
By Dave Wall, head chef at the Unruly Pig
The Unruly Pig in Suffolk has quite rightly been named UK gastropub of the year three times. Dave Wall is an immensely talented chef, as shown in his take on the classic crab pasta dish. It’s the addition of miso that makes this the best version I’ve tried.
Serves 4
Ingredients
• 150g brown crabmeat
• 150g butter
• 30g red miso paste
• Salt
• 500g fresh or 300g dried linguine
• Olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
• 2-3 chillies, finely sliced
• 200g white crabmeat
• Zest and juice of 1 lime
• 3-4 spring onions, finely sliced.
Method
1. Put the brown crabmeat, butter and miso in a pan with 150ml water and bring to a simmer. Blend with a stick blender and then pass through a fine sieve.
2. Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions — 2-3 minutes for fresh linguine and about 9 minutes for dried.
3. Drain the pasta and add a splash of olive oil to the pan. Briefly fry the garlic and chillies, then return the pasta to the pan with the crab sauce. Simmer for 1 minute so the sauce starts to bind to the pasta.
4. Remove from the heat, add the white crabmeat, lime zest and juice and spring onions and serve.
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Trout beurre rouge
By Claude Bosi, chef at Joséphine
Red wine with fish? Absolutely. This simple dish from Claude Bosi at his bistro Joséphine in Marylebone, London, shows why French classics have earned their place at the table — because they are simple and delicious.
Serves 4
Ingredients
• 50g finely chopped banana shallots
• 500ml full-bodied red wine
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 4 nice portions of fresh trout
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 200g cold unsalted butter, cubed
• 1 tsp lemon juice
Method
1. Add the chopped shallot, red wine and thyme to a small saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce by half, then pass through a fine sieve into a clean pan.
2. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 170C fan/gas 5. Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the trout fillets, skin-side down, and cook for a couple of minutes, then place the pan in the oven for a further 4-5 minutes depending on the size of the fish. The skin should be golden brown and the fish just cooked, still pink in the middle. Remove the fillets from the pan and set aside.
3. Bring the sauce back to a simmer. Whisk in the cold butter, one cube at a time, until the sauce becomes smooth and glossy. Don’t add the butter too fast and don’t make it simmer too high. Add a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavour and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper before serving with the trout.
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Strawberry and white chocolate cheesecake
By Rahul Mandal
Sometimes towards the end of summer, when I feel I can’t eat another Eton mess, I make this strawberry cheesecake by Rahul Mandal. Being the chilled rather than baked variety, it couldn’t be simpler to put together.
Serves 12
Prep time: 10-12 minutes
Ingredients
• 100g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
• 200g digestive biscuits
• 200g white chocolate
• 300ml double cream
• 2 x 280g tubs full-fat cream cheese
• 1½ tsp vanilla bean paste
• 450g strawberries, hulled
Method
1. Grease and line a 20cm loose-bottomed deep cake tin with butter and baking paper. Make sure you grease and line the sides as well.
2. Blitz the digestive biscuits in a food processor and tip into a bowl with the melted butter. Mix well and spoon into the lined cake tin. Press down with the back of a spoon to get an even base, then place in the fridge for 30 minutes to set.
3. Melt the white chocolate with 100ml double cream in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Set aside to reach room temperature.
4. Add the cream cheese, the rest of the cream, melted white chocolate and vanilla bean paste to a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Chop half the strawberries and fold them into the mixture. Pour onto the cheesecake base and smooth the top with a palette knife.
5. Return the cheesecake to the fridge for at least 4 hours to set. Decorate with the remaining strawberries and serve.
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Roast beef rib with lemon, anchovy and thyme crust
By Ben Tish, chef director of Cubitt House
This was chef Ben Tish’s suggestion for Christmas Day, but it’s such a good recipe that you shouldn’t wait another year to make it. Most people think of anchovies as going with lamb, but they add a lovely umami depth to beef as well.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
• 5 anchovy fillets in oil, drained
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1½ tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp thyme leaves
• 1 tbsp rosemary leaves
• 1 slice of stale sourdough or ciabatta, torn
• Olive oil
• Sea salt and black pepper
• 2.5-3kg fore rib of beef (2-3 ribs) at room temperature
For the balsamic gravy
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 100ml beef or veal stock
• Knob of butter
For the horseradish crème fraîche
• 150ml crème fraîche
• 3 tbsp freshly grated horseradish (or good-quality jarred)
• Squeeze of lemon juice
Method
1. First prepare the crust. Blitz the anchovies, lemon zest, garlic, half the mustard, herbs, bread and 2 tbsp olive oil in a food processor until coarse but spreadable. Season and reserve.
2. Heat the oven to 200C fan/gas 7. Season the beef generously and then sear in a hot pan with olive oil until browned on all sides. Place in a roasting tray. Spread the anchovy crust over the top and sides.
3. Roast for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven to 140C fan/gas 3 and cook for 15 minutes per 500g for medium-rare. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for at least 30 minutes.
4. Make the balsamic gravy: pour off the fat from the roasting tray, leaving the juices, and place the tray over a medium heat. Add the balsamic vinegar and scrape up the sticky bits, then add the stock and remaining ¾ tbsp mustard. Simmer until slightly reduced, then whisk in the butter.
5. Make the horseradish crème fraîche: mix the crème fraîche with the horseradish, lemon, salt and pepper. Chill until needed.
6. To serve, slice the beef and serve with a spoonful of horseradish crème fraîche and a drizzle of balsamic gravy.
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