Deprived of the chance to sip wine under a Mediterranean sun, Britons have been spending on the next best thing: record volumes of rosé.
The supermarket giant Waitrose reports that rosé has become hugely popular as customers recreate the taste of holidays to Italy, Spain and France, all places where the drink is produced.
In the past three months, 12.7% of wines bought from the retailer have been rosé, more than double the proportion sold in 2013.
Jamie Matthewson, Waitrose’s wine-buying manager, thinks this must be because rosé “conjures up something romantic”.
“Rosé is still considered slightly exotic. It makes you think of when you’re on holiday in Provence, Tuscany or Spain, enjoying a lovely, chilled glass,” he said.
“I think they want to replicate what they’re missing out on. People want to have the experiences they get on holiday while at home.”
It is not just people pining for time away who have fallen in love with rosé though. The sweet, tangy cousin of white and red wine has drawn celebrities.
In 2011, the Hollywood A-listers Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie bought Château Miraval, an award-winning rosé vineyard in the south of France, for £31m, and two years ago, the rock star Jon Bon Jovi launched Hampton Water rosé, his “super-premium” version of the wine.
Other celebrities selling the tipple, which ranges in colour from pale to near-purple, include the musicians John Legend, Kylie Minogue and Mary J Blige. If pictures posted by the couple are anything to go by, David and Victoria Beckham favour Whispering Angel, a popular rosé from Provence.
Waitrose has seen a 762% surge in popularity this year for its “bag in a box” rosé, suggesting that warm lockdown weather has led to rosé-tinted picnics and barbecues.
There has also been a 2,431% rise in sales of its fine rosés, which can be similar in taste to white wines such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. The market has moved on since rosé meant sweet and American.
“Our tastes have changed, so people are moving away from that, towards a much drier Italian and French style,” Matthewson said.
“They are seeing it as a style of wine, for all seasons, rather than what you drink when the sun comes out. Some go really well with chicken, turkey, a white meat or food such as risotto.”
Given its popularity, some may wonder who will be next to launch a celebrity rosé — and last week an unexpected name entered the mix.
Interviewing the chancellor, Rishi Sunak, on BBC Radio 4’s Today programme, the presenter Martha Kearney pointed out that social media users were poking fun at him for the “flourished” signature that appears on his policy announcements.
“Some people on Twitter say it appears as though you’re about to launch your own range of rosé wine,” she told him, to which he responded: “As a teetotaller I’m not sure I’d be able to enjoy that myself, but I’m sure my wife would.”
As far as Waitrose are concerned, the door is not closed on a Rishi brand rosé. “Never say never,” Matthewson said.
Three of the best to try this summer
The heatwave had us all pining for the sun lounger and a glass of crisp, pink, tangy holiday wine, writes Will Lyons, wine columnist
2019 Domaine de Triennes rosé, France
£12 Lay & Wheeler
It’s hard not to overstate the brilliance of this rosé, a joint venture between two top Burgundy estates. The style is elegant and ethereal. Exceptional.
Jardin de Roses, Jean-Claude Mas, Languedoc, France
£13.49 Waitrose
This rather charming rosé from the south of France is pure and delicate with notes of red berry and citrus — and is very drinkable.
2019 Rosé Domaine Tempier, Bandol, Provence, France
£28.95 Lea & Sandeman
One of Provence’s top wine estates. Its rosé has a soft, weighty texture and stands out for its stylish quality.
Dining and Cooking