The French Exit, Brisbane: Restaurant Review

Making a French exit will be the last thing on your mind at this new CBD bistro. Far from plotting a quick escape, you’ll be thinking of ways to linger inside the warm, butter-yellow dining room for as long as possible. One approach is to lean into the excellent desserts: lemony, olive oil-glazed madeleines, teamed with burnt butter whipped cream, perhaps, or decadent hazelnut ganache-filled profiteroles with vanilla ice-cream and chocolate sauce. Both are ideal excuses to delay the bill.

Another is by moving to the elegant U-shaped bar for another round. There’s the dangerously refreshing Marcel, Burn It Down, pairing pineapple granita with white rum, lime and pastis; or the hilariously named Who Rendezvous In A F’in Basement, which mixes calvados, rye whiskey, bay leaf and Peychaud’s Bitters for an inspired riff on a Sazerac.

Whatever you decide, you’re in safe hands. This is the latest from the Anyday group, after all, with plenty of runs on the board (Agnes, Biànca, Golden Avenue, et al). For venue number eight, the team has looked to the bustling bistros of France, complete with stained glass screens, tightly packed tables and wine bottles lining the walls. It’s not only beautiful to look at, but thoughtfully considered, courtesy of interior designer Tamsin Johnson. If the surrounds don’t transport you to Paris, the food will. The classics are present and correct – tender escargot loaded with garlic parsley butter; steak frites with a ripper béarnaise – but it’s the less familiar dishes that impress most.

Jellied rabbit is subtle in flavour but deeply textural, lifted by a sharp ravigote sauce, green strawberries and soft herbs. A Comté and spanner crab tart is wonderfully short and buttery, doused in a rich vin jaune sauce. A thick Toulouse sausage with mustard greens and peas à la Française leans rustic but is no less satisfying. The only misstep is a steak tartare that, on this occasion, skews overly acidic. Even salty pommes gaufrettes (waffle fries) can’t rescue it.

The French Exit steak frites

Best on ground is the fried pigs head cromesquis, which is like a croquette, offset by gribichesauce, lemon zest and fresh dill. Make it a must-order. It’s all backed by a comprehensive, French-leaning wine list that champions lesser-known regions. There aren’t many Brisbane restaurants that would offer a Jurançon sec and a Poulsard blend from the Jura by the glass.

The French Exit isn’t necessarily groundbreaking (Brisbane loves a French restaurant), but it’s confidently executed and sure to find plenty of fans. And by gosh, they’ll have a tough time kicking people out.

Chef(s)

John-Paul Fiechtner and Ryan Carlson

Opening Hours

Lunch and dinner daily

Elliot Baker

Author

Elliot Baker

Journalist

Elliot is a freelance food and travel journalist born and raised in Brisbane. He’s a staunch advocate for Queensland’s flourishing food and drink scene, having penned hundreds of articles across Gourmet Traveller and Broadsheet, among other publications. His passion for food journalism blossomed early, starting his own food blog at the age of 12 and seeing his first food article published in The Weekend Australian at just 14. He pursued his passion by completing a Bachelor of Journalism from Queensland University of Technology, which included a memorable stint studying in Thailand. Falling in love with Thai food and culture, he returns regularly, with Chiang Mai being his favourite city. He’s also a wine lover and considers his time doing a vintage in Beaujolais, France, as one of his most challenging and rewarding experiences. When Elliot’s not composing stories, you can find him perfecting his Thai recipes or cheering on the Brisbane Lions at the Gabba.

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