The St. Louis culinary scene lost a defining presence with the passing of chef Marcel Joseph Marie Keraval on December 28, 2025, at the age of 84. A master of French cuisine and hospitality, Keraval spent decades weaving his Breton roots into the fabric of St. Louis dining, leaving an enduring legacy defined by excellence, generosity and connection.
Food and kinship shaped Keraval’s life from an early age. Born in Laz, France, he left home at just 13 to pursue formal culinary training at the Académie de Poitiers in Tours, graduating in 1959. That education launched a lifelong devotion to his craft, conducted in kitchens across France, The Bahamas, New York and Omaha, Nebraska, before he settled in St. Louis, a city he would call home for more than 50 years.
Alongside his wife, Monique Keraval, he opened two landmark French-inspired restaurants, L’Auberge Bretonne and Café de France, which are both now closed. These family-owned establishments were co-owned and managed with Monique, her sister Rachel, and brother-in-law Jean-Claude Guillossou, reflecting a shared commitment to tradition, hospitality and meticulous craftsmanship. L’Auberge Bretonne opened in 1976 on Olive Blvd. in Creve Coeur, highlighting traditional French bistro cuisine. In 1979, Café de France opened downtown at 410 Olive St. before later relocating to Clayton.
Through these restaurants, Keraval introduced generations of diners to classical French cooking built on fresh ingredients, a commitment to scratch cooking, and a deep respect for technique. His culinary foundation emphasized the essentials: stocks, mother sauces, precise knife cuts and disciplined preparation. At home, Keraval delighted in preparing the classic French crêpe, a cherished dish from his native Brittany. In his restaurants, longtime patrons still fondly recall the soft-shell crab, escargot-bouillabaisse prepared en dôme, lamb dishes and his celebrated lobster bisque.
Among the many chefs shaped by Keraval’s mentorship is Philip Day, now chef-owner of Root Food + Wine in Augusta. Day credits Keraval with teaching him nearly every facet of kitchen life: butchery, fish fabrication, sauce making, pastry, waste utilization, menu composition, flavor development, food costing and ordering. Under Keraval’s guidance, Day was introduced to luxury ingredients such as foie gras, caviar and truffles.
“We bonded over cooking game meats like venison, quail, pheasant and duck,” Day recalled. “His sauce making is what sticks with me most. He was a true saucier. I remember him telling me, ‘The sauce is the gasoline of the kitchen,’ meaning the cuisine depends on it.”
Day added, “I have my own restaurant and my own style, but I’m deeply influenced by chef Marcel. Almost every day I use techniques or recipes I learned from him. I tell my cooks about him and pass that knowledge on, just as he did with me. Hopefully one day, I will make that kind of impression on a young cook.”
Keraval led with integrity and quiet authority. He often told his child and those close to him simply, “be good.” To him, those words carried layered meaning: be a good person, treat others well, take pride in your work and remain committed to your goals. He believed leadership was rooted not only in high standards, but also in respect, humor, warmth and camaraderie.
Outside the kitchen, he was reserved, laying low behind the scenes. But in his element, surrounded by food and people. he shined. In the kitchen, he was a force. For Keraval, life unfolded around the table. He believed deeply in the bonds formed through shared meals, in the power of conversation, laughter and the joy of gathering. Hospitality, to him, was an art, and every role, from kitchen to dining room, was essential to the guest experience. Each meal, celebration, and milestone was treated with care and intention.
“To my father, dining was never just about the food,” said his daughter, Elizabeth Cordes. “It was an experience, and it was personal. He respected the intimacy of that moment and took pride in being part of it.”
A devoted family man with a green thumb, a passion for history and a love of geography trivia, Marcel Keraval will be remembered as the chef who introduced countless St. Louisans to French cuisine, and did so with warmth, rigor and unmistakable hospitality. He is survived by his wife of 55 years, Monique Keraval; his daughter, Elizabeth Cordes; and his grandchildren, Stella and Ben Cordes, along with extended family, friends, and generations of cooks who carry his influence forward.
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Dining and Cooking