Courtesy Trèfle
Courtesy Trèfle
Trèfle
While Lyonnais cuisine has always been a paradise for meat eaters, the city’s dining scene has changed radically in recent times to offer a wide range of options for vegetarians and vegans. Trèfle opened in September 2025 under chef Emily Dadre, who already had a reputation for eco-responsible, sustainable cuisine. Here she has gone further, creating a haute-cuisine restaurant that’s entirely vegetarian-based, zero-waste and essentially organic, seasonal and locally grown. Using a palette of herbs and flowers, seaweed, vegetables, mushrooms, spices and grains, the menu changes each month with surprising dishes, such as a porcini mushroom crumble, sweet and sour stuffed pointed cabbage, and reinterpreting the classic Lyonnais quenelle using wakame seaweed with braised fennel and a plant-based Nantua sauce. Another original idea is offering a pairing menu with non-alcoholic drinks.
John Brunton
Bouchon Les Filles
Experiencing a meal in a traditional Lyonnais bouchon is a must for every visitor. Originating in the 18th century as working men’s taverns, when Lyon was the silk-weaving capital of Europe, bouchons were transformed 100 years ago by Les Mères Lyonnaises, a generation of women cooks trained in the kitchens of grand local mansions. The recipes, quality and quaint decor of red banquettes, a zinc-topped bar and checked tablecloths are unchanged today, and several bouchons like Les Filles are still run by women. Isabelle and Laura took over 14 years ago, offering a contemporary twist to traditional recipes. Be prepared for a meal of epic proportions, as the €32 ($38) set menu is obligatory; the starter, a défilé des saladiers (salads course), arrives at your table with dishes like green lentils, herrings and new potatoes, a crispy green salad and pumpkin soup. This is followed by, say, a succulent duck pot-au-feu (stew) or the iconic nose-to-tail dish tête de veau (calf’s head), smothered with a creamy gribiche sauce, then cervelle de canut, a creamy white cheese with herbs and shallots. And finally, there is a light souffle or a tangy lemon curd crumble. Be warned: there seems to be a bouchon on every street corner. Avoid a tourist trap by choosing one displaying the official sticker of a Guignol marionette.
Saône
With only 20 seats, be sure to book well in advance for the hottest new address in Lyon, opened in November 2025. Saône is the third restaurant of local chef Jean-Francois Têtedoie, and everything from the cuisine to the setting is a surprise. The tiny dining room also includes an open kitchen, so guests witness the chef cooking up a storm as their dishes are prepared right in front of them. Têtedoie has installed his young assistant, Maxence, to prepare his recipes, and the €43 ($51) obligatory set menu changes every week. While choice is strictly limited – two starters, two mains, cheese or dessert – the produce is exceptional, from juicy scallops to John Dory cooked with tangy sorrel and crunchy samphire, sea asparagus, accompanied by a seasonal pumpkin purée.
Dining and Cooking