Pulling up to Aubrey’s Corner on the corner of Aubrey and Morris Street, you’d never know this newcomer replaced a slice of Summit’s culinary history.
This space was once home to Marco Polo Restaurant, a red sauce institution that opened in 1934 but closed last year. Succeeding to a place that holds such deep nostalgia within the community would be a daunting endeavor for most. But for owners Jes and Lauren Taylor plus Emma Radest (Lauren’s sister), it was an opportunity to “bring balance to the local dining scene.”
Jes Taylor has worked in some impressive places since growing up in Summit — Restaurant Daniel, Café Boulud and Colicchio & Sons in New York, plus Roots Steakhouse and Sergeantsville Inn in the Garden State.
But he still remembers trips to Marco Polo as a kid — with some nostalgia, but blunt honesty as well.
“It (was) kind of tired even 30 years ago,” Taylor told NJ Advance Media. “Fast forward to today, I’ve been in restaurants for 15 years now. When we had the opportunity to revitalize and take over the space we jumped. We have three kids, so we wanted to create a space where people could gather with their families that’s open, light, bright and airy — a counterpoint to a lot of the restaurants in town.”
Bar room at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The Taylors were introduced to chef Michael Feinberg, formerly of R Bar in Asbury Park and New York’s American Cut Steakhouse, through an industry mentor, and the synergy was instantaneous.
Aubrey’s Corner boasts a menu inspired by several classic New York restaurants, and some dishes the group grew up eating at home — a mix of American comfort food with some international influences.
Beverage menu at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
“Nonni’s lasagna is Jes’s mom’s basic recipe,” Lauren Taylor said. “I loved the Thai mussels at Flex Mussels in New York City, so Mike came up with a spin on those. Guests are loving our pork chop which is a take on the one we love at Smith & Wollensky. The French onion soup is Mike’s labor of love.”
The sheer passion, level of detail and immense amount of collaboration that went into Aubrey’s Corner was palpable the night I visited to dine.
The good
French onion soup at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
One of the showstoppers of the night was Feinberg’s French onion soup ($14), a flavorful, comforting masterpiece in a crock. Chock full of sweet onions that were cooked down for more than six hours, each rich bite of the consommé-soaked, gruyere-topped crostini was heavenly. This was hands down one of the best versions of this soup I’ve had outside of Paris. I immediately made a mental note to return for another bowl of it the next time a craving struck.
Harvest salad at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
A much appreciated burst of freshness, the harvest salad ($17) was vibrant and crisp with little hints of heartiness throughout. I loved all of the textures and balance of flavors from the tender mixed greens, briny pickled onions, toasty pumpkin seeds, funky chèvre, chewy rice and sweet roasted squash — all lightly dressed in a maple vinaigrette. This was another hit, a dish I’d definitely order again.
Smash burger at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Moving on to the handhelds, the second standout of the meal was the smash burger ($19), featuring two thin, juicy patties, aged cheddar, Calabrian chili aioli and house pickles with a side of fries. I expected more heat from the aioli, which was reminiscent of Big Mac sauce in a good way, and the pickles were a bit overpowering. But the simplicity allowed the few ingredients included to really shine and made this a great burger. The fries were hot and crispy, on the thicker side and reminded me of ones I’ve had on the boardwalk — perfect for dipping in the side of Calabrian aioli.
Cauliflower steak at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The most pleasantly surprising and impressive plate was the cauliflower steak ($21). Vegetarian dishes can sometimes fall short and land unremarkably, but this one was stellar. A nearly caramelized golden brown slab of char-grilled and herb-marinated cauliflower was topped with finely chopped peppers, onions and chimichurri. Surprisingly complex yet light, I’d implore my fellow carnivores to order this for the table in lieu of a side. It was that good.
Faroe Island salmon at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Aubrey’s Corner’s culinary execution is perhaps best on display with their Faroe Island salmon ($33), a dish that can be incredibly boring. Here, the fish is deliciously brought to life. Flaky, buttery with delectably crispy skin, the filet was presented beautifully with roasted fennel and romanesco, atop a bed of cauliflower soubise. Elegant and balanced, this dish showed off Feinberg’s range with a nod to more elevated cuisine.
Brussels sprouts at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The most enticing side dish was the brussels sprouts ($10), fried until dark and crispy along with pieces of tender romanesco, drenched in a hot honey vinaigrette. I love when chefs hit sprouts with a sweet element to balance the nuttiness and deep caramelization, and these definitely hit the mark.
Thai curry mussels at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)The bad
While nothing served tasted bad, there were some issues with temperature consistency across a few of the dishes. I was so excited for the Thai curry mussels ($22). While the flavors of the coconut broth were on point, the actual mussels were room temperature and a bit dry, due to sitting for too long. A major red flag for any dish, but especially shellfish.
Prime French dip at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
The prime French dip ($22) was tender and delicious on the same crusty baguette served in the standout bread basket, but the meat itself was also room temperature. Had it been piping hot, the red wine au jus would have soaked into the bread better and made for a more balanced bite.
Apple crumble at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)
Lastly, the apple crumble ($12) had a ton of potential — featuring apples that still had some body, coated in warm spices. The crumble component was crunchy and satisfying and the vanilla ice cream was creamy and delicious, but failed to melt because the dessert itself was also room temperature. With a few tweaks on prep and timing, these three dishes would have been up with the rest of the good.
Main dining room at Aubrey’s Corner in Summit(Stephanie Rizzolo | for NJ Advance Media)The vibe
Aubrey’s Corner really nailed the neighborhood spot aesthetic. The elegant and thoughtful renovation by Summit-based architecture firm Rosen Kelly Conway paired with Emma Montgomery’s interior design lead is exactly what this town needed.
The airy and charming space is outfitted in light woods and neutral tones, as well as botanical artwork and minimalistic accents. Velvet and leather banquettes and dark wood bistro chairs add texture and character, and the two distinct dining rooms offer guests options. The room with the expansive bar will eventually offer high top seating, perfect for a business lunch or date night. We dined among couples and families, and could feel how well-received Aubrey’s Corner already was just two months since opening its doors.
The bottom line
Aubrey’s Corner is the type of neighborhood spot any Jersey suburb would be lucky to have. Cozy, inviting and the kind of place you could visit for virtually any occasion, it has quickly become a go-to for the local community. Guests can expect the beverage program to be further built out with brunch on the eventual horizon.
Jes and Lauren Taylor’s mission of creating a place “that’s creative and interesting, where people would feel welcome to congregate,” is exactly what Aubrey’s Corner embodies — and is proof a town can survive without its old-school red sauce joint.
Dining and Cooking