In partnership with Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme
Jean-François Rouquette, head chef at PUR’ at the Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme shares some of his favourite places, from grand brasseries and soaring art museums to the market where chefs stock up on Sundays.
Chef Jean-François Rouquette has earned his stripes as an honorary Parisian; born in Aveyron, he’s spent 40 years living in the city. For half that time, he’s worked in one of the city’s most splendid quarters, steps away from Place Vendôme, in the quietly luxurious surrounds of the Park Hyatt Paris–Vendôme.
Chef Jean-François Rouquette
Here, he presides over its Michelin-starred restaurant PUR’ – Jean-François Rouquette, known for its boldly creative menus and intimate dining spaces, recently (and exquisitely) redesigned by architect Hugo Toro. After 20 years, the hotel feels almost like home – “except,” he smiles, “I’m always in my chef’s whites” – while his off-duty hangouts run from neighbourhood bistros to the market on boulevard Raspail. We caught up for the lowdown on his all-time favourite spots.
You came to Paris as a young chef. What’s made you stay?
It’s a big city that still feels human in scale. You can walk across the whole city and never tire of it, and each arrondissement has its own character and charm. Having travelled extensively for work, I always come to the same conclusion: many cities are charming, but Paris remains the most beautiful city in the world.
Montmartre at dusk (Image: John Towner)
What makes the city’s food scene so unique?
Paris has the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants, but there’s so much more to discover; it’s a city of contrasts and encounters. First, there are the great Parisian brasseries, serving the classics of French cuisine, whether that’s a comforting blanquette de veau or impeccable sole meunière. Then come the bistros, with their generous, soulful dishes: andouillette, pâté en croûte, tarte Bourdaloue and the like, accompanied by superb terroir wines. Beyond that, there are the neighbourhood cafés, for a perfectly executed œuf mayonnaise and other simple pleasures. Steps from the hotel, for example, is Le Petit Vendôme, whose jambon-beurre (ham baguette) has been voted the best in the world. Then of course, there are the pâtisseries… incomparable!
We’re checking into the hotel. Do you have a favourite room or suite?
I have a soft spot for the top-floor rooms with terraces, like the fifth-floor Vendôme Suite, whose private balcony overlooks Rue de la Paix and the Vendôme column. It’s Paris in all its poetry: that view over the monuments and zinc rooftops is magical, especially at sunset.
Balcony views from the Vendôme Suite
Where’s good for a casual lunch in Paris?
The Halle aux grains at the Bourse de Commerce, for its contemporary elegance. I also love the sincerity of Julien Rousseau’s cuisine at Hyatt Paris Madeleine. And for honest, generous cooking that celebrates seasonal produce, head to Rooster, Marseilles-born chef Frédéric Duca’s laidback bistro in Batignolles.
… And a restaurant that never disappoints?
Le Pavillon Ledoyen by Yannick Alléno is an institution, serving bold yet precise French cuisine in an elegant historic setting.
How about a favourite food market?
The Sunday-morning organic market on Boulevard Raspail. It’s friendly and small-scale, without the oppressive crowds of the big Parisian markets, and draws a mix of neighbourhood regulars, food lovers and chefs. Every season brings different produce, from spring’s asparagus and Gariguette strawberries to winter’s wild mushrooms and Corsican citrus. Arrive early, around 9am, to get the best products before they disappear, and don’t miss the incredible fresh pasta.
Which pâtisserie are you a regular at?
Pâtisserie Gilles Marchal, in Montmartre. I’m always impressed by the elegance and precision of his creations. At the hotel, I love La Biscuiterie, our pastry chef Narae Kim’s take on afternoon tea. Presented in a case like fine jewellery, it unfolds in four acts, starting with her exquisite, childhood-inspired biscuits.
Biscuits and bubbles at Narae Kim’s alternative afternoon tea
What’s something that most tourists miss?
The Petit Palais, which is often overshadowed by the Grand Palais. Its architecture is magnificent and it has a wonderful permanent collection. The cherry on top? You can enjoy a drink in the rotunda garden, at any time of year.
I’d also recommend the Richelieu Library, a historic jewel that’s part of France’s national library. Entry is free, and it’s a breathtaking place for book lovers. Finally, take a tour of the opera house, Palais Garnier; every corner is a visual wonder. The ceiling by Chagall will leave you speechless.
The gilded Palais Garnier (Image: Gwen King)
Any other tips for experiencing the city like a local?
Explore by bike or scooter. I’ve had a scooter for over 20 years, and it’s transformed city life for me: it’s faster, more practical and truly liberating. You see the city differently, with the ability to stop any time a shop, façade or new restaurant catches your eye.
What’s your favourite place in the hotel?
In my open kitchen, overlooking the dining room at PUR’. It’s my stage. We were the first in Paris to open the kitchen to the dining room, and that connection with the guests and front-of-house team has had a huge impact on how my cuisine has evolved.
Dinner by candelight at PUR’
Where do you head in search of inspiration?
I’m a great lover of travel, and spices have long been at the heart of my cooking. I love their power to evoke a journey, an emotion… Monsieur Roellinger’s spice boutique in the Marais always inspires me. His blends are subtle, his peppers of rare quality, and it’s an Aladdin’s cave for enthusiasts like me.
What’s top of your list of new openings to visit?
The new Fondation Cartier, which has moved to the heart of Paris, opposite the Comédie-Française and the Louvre, in a building reimagined by architect Jean Nouvel. Afterwards, lunch at La Brasserie du Louvre, which embodies the city’s timeless elegance.
We’re ready for a drink. What’s truly delicious?
Don’t miss the Secret Blend, the Tuesday-evening cocktail ritual at the hotel’s bar. Bartender Salvatore Petrosino reimagines the classics, with a trio of bold variations – like his superb Mezcal Coffee Negroni, served in a Moka pot.
Cocktails are garnished by Petrosino during the Secret Blend
Header image credit: William Jess Laird
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Dining and Cooking