When my fellow Inspector and I made our way to dinner at Bonheur by Matt Abé, it’s fair to say that our anticipation levels could scarcely have been higher. Abé himself had shown his credentials time and again as chef at Three-MICHELIN-Star Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, maintaining its extremely high standards for over a decade. Furthermore, this was my first visit to the former Le Gavroche site since that restaurant (one of the most iconic and influential in British history) closed its doors and turned off its stoves. That Bonheur did not disappoint, despite all the promise and expectation, is a testament to the quality of its cooking.
An Institution Reborn As much as Bonheur is a towering achievement in its own right, it was always inevitable when visiting for the first time that many diners would have Le Gavroche in the back of their mind. That legendary restaurant, run by two generations of the Roux family, opened in 1967 and changed the face of British cooking with its French culinary techniques. When we arrived at the famous Mayfair address, it was soon clear how different the place now looks.
The completely redesigned dining room at Bonheur. © Joe Howard/Bonheur by Matt Abé
Lighter and brighter than Le Gavroche, the Bonheur interiors draw on Abé’s Australian heritage and even have an art deco touch to them. We had a drink in the intimate cocktail bar to begin, then headed into the basement restaurant, descending the stairs with as much anticipation as ever before. The dining room continued with the neutral tones and clean, modern design we found in the bar, while dried flowers added a pop of colour. I loved how spacious the room felt, with each table given space to breathe.
Matt Abé’s Culinary Signature Just as Abé has not felt beholden to the shell of Le Gavroche, similarly his cooking paints the picture of a chef who is comfortable in his own skin. Bonheur’s menus are not a redo of recipes from Abé’s time at the Gordon Ramsay flagship, but a reflection of his own cooking style. There’s still a clear French influence in his dishes, but it’s less overt now and with a slightly lighter touch. Almost all the dishes on the menu were ones we have not seen Abé cook before.
One of Matt Abé’s new signature creations at Bonheur. © Jodi Hinds/Bonheur by Matt Abé
Yet crucially, we never got the sense that Abé was self-consciously trying to veer in the opposite direction to his previous ventures. His cooking has originality, but it’s not showily creative for the sake of it. Instead, the underlying theme is simply his outstanding technical skill, especially in the stand-out sauces. If cooking is a craft, then Abé is a chef who has every tool available to him, because he’s honed all the technical skills he needs over the years – and now he can have fun with them.
With Bonheur representing a new chapter in Abé’s career, one in which he is now front-and-centre, it was great to see him take such an active role in the service too. Just as his dishes suggested confidence in his ability, he seemed at ease in the dining room, effortlessly taking on the role of host, engaging with guests and serving the first snacks to every table.
A New Set of Classics We opted for the longer ‘Dream’ tasting menu and there was a pleasing consistency throughout the cooking. Considering these were largely new dishes, it was telling how finely tuned they already were. Here are a few that stood out.
The luxurious celeriac royale at Bonheur, with a generous helping of caviar. © Bonheur by Matt Abé
Celeriac Royale, Oscietra Caviar, Allium, Hazelnut If this dish was a reference to the famous hare royale at Le Gavroche, it was more of a knowing wink than a proper homage. At the base of the dish was a rich celeriac cream, with the vegetable’s signature sweet, earthy flavour coming through nicely. This was topped with a darker celeriac broth that deepened the flavour, while toasted hazelnuts added another dimension and a textural contrast. A generous serving of caviar brought lashings of luxury, while finely shaved allium buds cleverly offered a hint of freshness to an otherwise rich dish. Isle of Skye Scallop, Carrot, Clementine, Yuzu, Kosho Demonstrating the shift in Abé’s cooking style, this bright, fresh dish was built around a superb hand-dived scallop. The cooking time was perfectly judged so the scallop had a slightly melting quality, with a wafer-thin golden crust on top. It was served with carrot ribbons and purée, plus a perfectly judged sweet-acidic interplay between segments of clementine and pearls of finger lime which burst in the mouth. Binding everything together was a beurre blanc flavoured with yuzu kosho that illustrated how Japanese flavours can enhance a classic French recipe when used so adeptly.
Matt Abé’s beef with potato, parsley and smoked bone marrow. © Bonheur by Matt Abé
125-Day-Aged Cumbrian Blue Grey, Potato, Parsley, Smoked Bone Marrow The beef at the heart of this dish was from a breed that Abé himself has been involved in rearing over the last five years. A thick slice of the sirloin was caramelised around the sides and pink inside, providing ample rich flavour. A terrine of thinly sliced potato acted as the anchor for a smoked bone marrow cream, tiny onion cups, capers and shimeji mushrooms. The classic Bordelaise sauce was perfect for the dish. A final, highly original touch that elevated the dish was a piece of rendered fat which burst with a meaty flavour that lingered long on the palate.
A sumptuous dessert of pecan praline with Pedro Ximénez, coffee and cocoa nib. © Bonheur by Matt Abé
Pecan Praline, Pedro Ximénez, Coffee, Cocoa Nib This was one of Abé’s few overt nods to his time at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Stylishly simple in looks, it consisted of a creamy chocolate mousse studded with crunchy pieces of praline and enveloped by a thin chocolate shell. A single candied pecan and tiny dots of sherry gel added further sweetness, while a smooth cocoa nib ice cream acted as a foil to the richness and sweetness of the other elements.
Inspector’s TipsWhile we chose the ‘Dream’ tasting menu, it’s also worth considering the shorter ‘Journey’ option for a lighter meal and to try Abé’s new signature take on a quiche Lorraine. And, refreshingly for a restaurant at this level, there’s also a classic three-course menu available with a choice at every stage.As Bonheur is located in Mayfair, you have no shortage of luxury hotels to stay in nearby. If you want something different from the historic grand dames (The Connaught, The Dorchester, Claridge’s), check into The Twenty Two, a members’ club and hotel with far more colourful interior design than you’d expect from its Edwardian facade.Start with a drink in the cocktail bar, which has been made into a welcome part of the overall experience.
Hero Image: Isle of Skye scallop with carrot, clementine, yuzu and kosho from Bonheur by Matt Abé in London. © Bonheur by Matt Abé
Dining and Cooking