Pesto trapantese
Photo by Juliana Diaz Muñoz
Michelin darling Grassfed Culture Hospitality—the group behind One Starred and Green Starred Los Felix and Bib Gourmand-awarded Krus Kitchen in Miami—is bringing its seasonal touch to Atlanta with the launch of Fum. A contemporary Italian restaurant focused on transparency, locality, and natural wines, Fum will open in Stella at Star Metals on the Westside February 14.
“Italy is such an inspiration. I grew up with an Italian stepfather, and our summers in Italy were always very impactful,” says cofounder and executive chef Sebastian Vargas. “We’re working within a 300-mile radius to find our produce, meat, and all our sourcing. We’re working with the seasons. We’re working in a sustainable manner, with the Italian philosophy and roots.”
The restaurant is set up to provide the utmost visibility. In addition to an open kitchen, there is a pasta-making room, dry-aging room, wine area, and cocktail bar—all which can be easily observed by diners. It’s organized in a way that’s intended to be reminiscent of Italian piazzas, where locals wander through, purchasing items at the butcher, the bakery, the cafe, and more as they prepare for their evening meal.
Once seated, dinner can begin with house-made sourdough focaccia based on a custom flour mixture created with a Georgia farmer. There will be crudo, tartar, oysters, cheeses, charcuterie, salads, and antipasti. Handmade pasta, from agnolotti to pappardelle, come in half portions to allow diners to taste more items, and plated meat and seafood entrees will be available too.
“The beauty of it all is that like you can look at the menu, then look up and see where all those things are coming from,” Vargas exclaims.
As for beverages, Esther Merino, a respected Spanish mixologist, is leading the way, developing eight house cocktails, plus aperitivo and after-dinner drinks. A negroni cart will come table to table, offerings Alpine spins on the cocktail, using ingredients like grappa and sherry.
Violeta cocktail (vodka, limoncello, blueberry, lime, and ginger)
Photo by Juliana Diaz Muñoz
There will be a few beers, but biodynamic Italian wines created by female producers take precedence with 120 to 150 bottles on the list. About 15 of those will be available by the glass, including red, white, orange, rose, bubbly, and skin contact options.
“We’ve never aimed for Michelin. We’ve just done things the way we think they should be done, and the accolades have come naturally,” Hackler says. “If it comes to us here, we’ll be super grateful, but there’s no formula we follow because we want a Star.”
At 150 seats, Fum (pronounced “foom”) is adorned with warm reds, soft greens, and neutrals, with elements of wood, metal, stone, and plaster. Millwork and hardwood floors are carefully crafted, with an open hearth taking center stage. The dining room features intentionally low ceilings to create a feeling of coziness and intimacy, explains Grassfed cofounder Joseph Hackler.
Grilled wild head-on prawns
Photo by Juliana Diaz Muñoz
A patio will open in the spring, and validated valet parking will be offered to offset some of the stress of intown driving. A breakfast-and-lunch cafe serving coffee drinks, pastries, paninis, and cold sandwiches will reside just outside the restaurant, providing a grab-and-go option for building residents and workers.
The Grassfed team is also working on a cocktail bar called Rabbit Ears on the 17th floor of the building. Slated to open in the spring, it promises whimsical drinks with names like Garden Intruder, the Burrow, and Carrot Chaser, alongside small plates such as yellow dynamite popcorn and carrot tartare. Shareable seafood options like sea urchin with brown butter milk bread, tuna crudo, and lobster rolls will round out the menu. A high-fidelity sound system will play carefully curated records.
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Dining and Cooking