The revered Spanish winery was in the spotlight at a recent historic tasting in Singapore
IT’S not every day that one gets to taste a 1921 Unico from Spanish wine legend Vega Sicilia – never mind 10 vintages from each decade since then.
A few weeks ago, the stars aligned as Pablo Alvarez, chief executive of Tempos Vega Sicilia and custodian of Spain’s most revered wine estate, presided over a once-in-a-lifetime tasting of some of its most hallowed wines.
Alvarez holds Singapore close to his heart, he says, recalling his first visit in 1989 when the city-state’s wine market was still in its infancy. He was warmly welcomed, building up strong friendships over the years as Singapore grew to become one of Vega Sicilia’s most important global markets.
The recent tasting was an opportunity to honour those friendships and his bond with the city-state.
Under Alvarez’s stewardship, Vega Sicilia has led the rise of Spain’s standing in the world of fine wine. As a result, Spanish wines – spurred by their reputation for value rather than prestige – have gained a steady following in both secondary markets and private collections.
A line-up of 10 Vega Sicilia wines featured at the tasting. PHOTO: NICOLA LEE
Founded in 1864, Vega Sicilia sits along the Duero River or Ribera del Duero. Closely associated with the Tempranillo grape, its guiding philosophy has always been time over immediacy.
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From the start, Vega Sicilia resisted commercial pressure to release wines young, holding them back until deemed ready to drink – a discipline that has underpinned both its reputation and long-term market performance.
Today, Tempos Vega Sicilia oversees a compact but influential portfolio of seven wineries that includes Ribera De Duero (which produces the iconic Unico, Valbueno No 5 and Alion), Rioja Macan, Toro Pintia, Tokaj Oremus, and the most recent, Rias Baixas Deiva.
Unico, however, remains the defining benchmark. Produced only from the estate’s most prized parcels, it represents the purest expression of Vega Sicilia’s long-held philosophy.
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For collectors, Unico is a core holding, and ageing is central to its identity. Unico undergoes prolonged maturation in a combination of oak barrels, large wooden vats and bottles for over a decade before release.
Rajeshwaran Gopal, owner-sommelier of wine bar Les Climats, notes that Vega Sicilia’s distinction lies in its patience. “It is not about speed or trends,” he adds, “but about allowing the wine to become what it is meant to be.”
Alvarez describes the wine as “consistent, elegant and complex – truly unique”.
His influence extends well beyond the estate’s gates. When the Alvarez family acquired Vega Sicilia in 1982, Ribera del Duero was only beginning to define itself. The appellation was formally established that year with just 14 wineries. Today, it numbers more than 300 and is firmly positioned among the world’s leading fine-wine regions.
Comparisons between Vega Sicilia and Bordeaux’s First Growths are now commonplace, an analogy Alvarez regards as both an honour and a marker of Spain’s growing international recognition.
Soft-spoken and reflective, he attributes his four decades at the helm to consistency rather than reinvention.
“The objective has always been to make great wine,” he says, “guided by professionalism, seriousness and honesty, especially with our clients. They are the ones we must respect above all.”
Maintaining relevance, he argues, requires adaptation without compromising origin. Advances in viticulture are essential, but certain fundamentals remain immutable. All Vega Sicilia wines are produced from estate-owned vineyards, ensuring complete control over raw material and insulating the group from supply volatility.
“This,” he observes, “is the one thing no one can copy.”
Tasting notes
The Singapore tasting featured 10 decades from 2016 back to 1921 – a chronological portrait of Spanish fine wine that illustrated its longevity and Alvarez’s over-30-year friendship with the little red dot.
He allowed the wines to speak for themselves with just an endearing toast and a smile, his quiet presence belying the significance of this rare and possibly unrepeatable occasion.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 2016
A beautifully perfumed nose; this 2016 showed restraint, almost shy at first, taking time to unfold in the glass. This is the second vintage under winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga, who joined in 2015. Elegant and refined, it features 96 per cent tinto fino and 4 per cent cabernet sauvignon.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 2006
Aromas of dark fruit, pepper and spice with vibrant acidity. Ripe, generous and well-structured, finishing with impressive length. A wine destined for the cellar, this has 94 per cent tinto fino and 6 per cent cabernet sauvignon.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1996
Fragrant notes of violets and dense black fruit, with remarkable purity. Sweet, lush and beautifully balanced, supported by silky tannins and layered complexity on the palate. It comprises 90 per cent tinto fino and 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1986
Tertiary character on full display, offering soft aromas of cigar, mushroom, plum and baked fruit. Concentrated, expressive and deeply intense, with 75 per cent tinto fino and 25 per cent cabernet sauvignon.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1974
At 52 years old, this magnum was in outstanding condition. A remarkably fresh nose with only subtle tertiary development. Liquorice and chocolate notes, beautifully balanced, with 70 per cent tinto fino and 30 per cent cabernet sauvignon.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1964
Released for Vega Sicilia’s centenary, this wine retained youthful colour. Aromas of soya sauce, forest floor and mushroom, with a soft mid-palate and sweet, evolving finish. Featuring 65 per cent tinto fino, 20 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 15 per cent merlot, malbec and albillo.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1953
Madeira-like in character; soft, delicate and remarkably alive. Herbaceous tones lead to a fine, sweet black-fruit finish. Composed of 80 per cent tinto fino, 15 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 5 per cent merlot, malbec and albillo.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1942
Brick-red in colour, with aromas of wet forest, dried fruit and spice. Delicate yet intense, offering layered flavour and a medium-length finish.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1938
Alvarez’s first tasting of this vintage. Delicate, with faint notes of aged orange peel, mushroom and tobacco.
Unico, Vega Sicilia 1921
As Alvarez remarks: “At 105 years old, this wine is still living. What more could one ask?”
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