How Yohan Da Costa is redefining Peter at The Peninsula Tokyo

Changing the concept of a long-established restaurant is always tricky. It can provoke more than it pleases, especially among regulars.

Some establishments, however, manage the transition without compromising their ethos. Nadaman, for example, has skillfully merged kaiseki (multicourse Japanese haute cuisine) and sushi omakase (chef’s choice) into a single, harmonious format.

Others opt for a bolder reinvention.