On a serene autumn evening overlooking the Mediterranean, we settled into the reimagined Blue Bay Marcel Ravin at Monaco’s Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort, poised to experience what Gault & Millau lauds as the best Caribbean-influenced cuisine in France. Following a transformative five-month closure after earning a second MICHELIN star in 2022, the establishment reopened its doors on February 14, 2024, re-branded with reference to its iconoclastic chef. Its metamorphosis extended beyond just a stylish new interior. Mere days before reopening, the restaurant earned admission to the prestigious Grandes Tables du Monde, joining just over 200 of the world’s greatest dining establishments..
From Martinique to Monte-Carlo
Chef Marcel Ravin’s journey from Martinique to Monaco is an exceptional one, a love song to two distinct destinations separated by thousands of miles yet united by their relationship with the sea. Ravin arrived in France at age 20, attempting to fulfill his childhood wish of becoming a chef as he learned Creole culinary arts in his grandmother’s kitchen. He eventually landed at the Monte-Carlo Bay in 2005 and worked his way up to Blue Bay, which earned its first MICHELIN star in 2015, no small feat in Monaco’s intensely competitive dining scene.
What makes his culinary philosophy so compelling is his core principle that the Mediterranean and the Caribbean share more than most diners realize. Both regions celebrate abundant seafood, embrace bold spices, rely on fresh vegetables and aromatic herbs, accompanied by a deep respect for fishing, maritime culture, and deeply rooted traditions of communal dining where food becomes the language of hospitality.
A Reimagined Space
The refurbishment, executed in concert with interior designer Alexandra Saguet, drew inspiration from the five elements – fire, earth, metal, water, and wood, although water remains the predominant theme. The main dining room features organic enhancements including intricate wave patterns on tabletops, textiles with botanical motifs, dividers reminiscent of coral branches, and light fixtures alternately resembling white jellyfish, butterflies, or flower petals. Ravin worked with a ceramicist from his native island to create bespoke tableware that both tells a story and creates an overwhelming sense of harmony with nature. The open kitchen design proves crucial to the overall dining experience. Ravin intended for his guests to witness the collaborative artistry.
On the outdoor terrace where we dined, the azure waters of Larvotto Bay beckon sea-loving souls. Surrounded by open skies with tranquil sails passing by, it’s easy to imagine relaxing on the foredeck of one’s yacht. The centerpiece of the renovation lies within, though, at the intimate La Table de Marcel, an exclusive eight-seat experience featuring a monumental oak table. The “restaurant within a restaurant” extravaganza offers 20 meticulously curated courses orchestrated directly by Chef Ravin and his attentive team, bringing guests into immediate proximity with his creative process with a completely carte blanche menu. As Gault & Millau referenced in their coverage of the reopening, that authenticity radiates throughout the space.
Culinary Dialogue
The menu, renewed every three weeks drawing from what the hotel’s organic kitchen garden provides, showcases Ravin’s signature approach. The iconic Monte-Carlo egg, featuring cassava, passion fruit, and truffle (or caviar), perfectly illustrates the Mediterranean-Caribbean dialogue of premier French ingredients meeting tropical brightness, with cassava replacing the typical starches.
During our visit, the menu reflected autumn’s bounty with dishes like the richly smoky Poulet Madras “Boucan d’Enfer” with Caribbean dumplings and prawns, and scallops with Borlotti Beans, squash, and truffled Creole sausage. A standout lobster dumpling arrived swimming in coconut curry with trout roe, the sweetness of Caribbean coconut milk balanced by the brininess of Mediterranean seafood, making a perfect encapsulation of Ravin’s dual culinary heritage. He references his early kitchen memories in Martinique of creamy, spicy calalou and blaff, the richly flavored clear fish broth, along with traditional Caribbean preparations of poultry from the Piedmont and milk-fed lamb from the Alpilles.
Beyond the Wine List
Despite the immediate welcoming presence of the wine cellar upon entering, wine pairings have been thoughtfully curated, but perhaps more impressive are the non-alcoholic “Food and Aromas” combinations using fermentation and herb infusions, leading to an array of new cocktails to complement the menu. These are in addition to Ravin’s exclusive Marcel’s Rum in collaboration with Maison Clément, redolent in cocoa, leather, and vanilla notes. There’s also, for those very rare occasions in Spring when Sunday Brunch is served, a partnership with Charles Heidsieck for the obligatory champagne for such occasions. Indeed, Ravin is the ultimate collaborator and that openness inspires his team which he seems to happily mentor.
Pastry chef Floriane Grand’s dessert preparations unveil tableside with theatrical flair, reflecting Caribbean cooking traditions where kitchen and table exist in fluid conversation. Additional reminiscences from home include “The Chocolate Taste of My Childhood” and the decidedly Creole Prickly Pear Thin Pancake with sweet potato, mango, and atoumo.
Bridging Two Worlds
Blue Bay Marcel Ravin offers something increasingly rare: a chef cooking from genuine lived experience rather than appropriated influences. Ravin doesn’t merely borrow Caribbean flavors; he channels his mémé’s kitchen, the gardens of his childhood, the communal joy of island life. That joy infuses everything, décor, service, and culinary innovation which, discounting the latter, is sometimes missing from the ranks of the esteemed restaurants of the Société des Bains de Mer. When the freshest Mediterranean fish meets tropical spices, it’s not fusion for fusion’s sake, it’s two coastal cuisines recognizing their shared soul. In reimagining his restaurant, Ravin has created more than a dining destination, he has built a bridge between two worlds that were never as far apart as the atlas would suggest.
Photos: Benedetti Laurent | Words: Janine Devine
Dining and Cooking