Set on the main drag of a college town, Casa Ragazzi may seem misplaced, tucked as it is just steps from inexpensive chains and sandwich shops, staples for the young college crowd that readily strolls George Street. However, landing at this restaurant requires intentionality; this is not a foot-traffic stop, but rather a planned destination. Upscale, dramatic and Instagram-ably glammy, the patrons here lean more toward party ready than university casual or corporate stuffy, despite the abundance of schools and office parks nearby.
A collection of Old World-inspired arches meet undulating wooden accents in the dining room, presenting a look that is at once classic and fresh. A simple palette of earthy browns and warm whites lends a warm, contemporary ambience. Tables, mostly set as twos—a nod to the date-night mood that comes from the low lights and soft music—are framed by charming curved niches with marbleized interiors. The elongated main floor leads to a sharp, compact well-stocked bar that draws a cozy crowd.
Photo: Courtesy of Casa Ragazzi
The restaurant was brought to life by owners Alberto Buglione, who serves as executive chef; Ivan Garducci, in the role of general manager; and Sam Vinci, who led the design. Garducci and Buglione originally teamed up to create Metuchen’s casual Mangia Toscano, parlaying that success south to Hub City for a new rendition of Italian favorites that span multiple regions of Italy.
Starting at sea, grilled octopus is presented with a generous spread of tentacles dotted with puréed and crispy chickpeas over sauteed spinach with a bright parsley-caper sauce. The meaty sea creature had an excellent char, and the presentation was droolworthy. The execution was an overall success, with the fatter sections significantly more succulent than the end pieces. Drag each blackened bite through slightly lemony, briny sauce and the creamy garbanzo-bean purée for fantastic flavor hits. The toasted chickpeas, unfortunately, stopped the fun, requiring serious chewing to crunch through and interrupting the texture mix. Also right on the verge of triumph is the insalata. We tried the Tuscan black kale, which appeared slightly overdressed with tangy balsamic vinaigrette, perhaps to counter the firmness of the broad crucifer. The result dampens the otherwise excellent pairing of gorgonzola cheese, pine nuts and prosciutto crudo.
Photos: Courtesy of Casa Ragazzi
Pastas are a sweet spot, such as the firm ribbons of house-made pappardelle, served classically al dente, yet fresh and silky in the mouth. The rich and hearty Bolognese that tops the noodle leads the imagination to thoughts of an aromatic and warm nonna’s kitchen where the sauce has simmered for hours, successfully melding tomatoes, sofrito and ground meats.
Selections from the ocean are given Mediterranean treatments. Flaky grouper is set in a light, flavorful broth and topped with garlic confit, cherry tomatoes and capers in a broth fragrant and flavorful enough to sip. Lamb and veal chops, and several cuts of Prime steaks, including a 40-day dry aged T-bone porterhouse, are also crowd pleasers.
Charismatic enough to charm through its bumps, with well-thought-out cocktail and wine offerings and a lower-level dining room to accommodate large groups and busy nights, Casa Ragazzi has found its niche.
HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.
Dining and Cooking