I suppose my invitation to visit Italy’s Amalfi Coast—to enjoy its picturesque views, to go yachting with Beyoncé and Leo, and to dine in its Michelin-starred restaurants—has been misplaced by Louis DeJoy’s U.S. Postal Service. (Same with my invite to George Clooney’s Lake Como getaway. Shake a damn leg, Louis.)
But I’m cool with it, because we’ve got Carbone Riviera at Bellagio. And as family-style, celebrity-chic, coastal Italian dining experiences go, it’s a peerless buona sera.
Located in the waterfront space formerly occupied by the resort’s signature restaurant Picasso, Carbone Riviera serves up visual deliciousness from the jump. Its warm, handsomely appointed dining room is close enough to Bellagio’s spectacular fountain show for its bright jets to fill your entire view out the floor-to-ceiling windows. Every few minutes, those windows fill with warm, diffuse white light, like the way you’ve always imagined heaven—a comparison borne out by the celestial tastes served on Carbone Riviera’s plates.
The meal “captain” comes out strong with a complimentary olive and tomato foccacia, accompanied by a whisper-light white bean and basil puree spread. Its savory goodness will nudge you towards the cocktail list, where some bold tastes await, among them the Sunrise Margarita (Reposado, Aperol, tangerine and chili spice) and the Pistachio Colada (Absinthe, pineapple, pistachio and Amaro), both $22. Your captain—a fixture of Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick’s Carbone restaurants who’s more tour guide than waiter, knowledgeable and attentive—will prove especially invaluable here, guiding you through some expansive waters.
Perhaps they’ll lead you to some truly delicious antipasti, including calamari fritti ($35), beef carpaccio Piemontese ($36) or the to-die-for lobster meatballs ($49). Strongly recommended are the red Sicilian prawns ($37), served with a Honey Bomb tomato confit, fresh horseradish and pickled shallots. Or you’ll allow them to talk you into the Caesar Alla ZZ salad ($31), prepared tableside with splendidly fresh anchovies, or Mario’s Famous Insalata de Mare ($55), a winning assortment of calamari, lobster, scallops and shrimp served oreganata style.
The macaroni islands beckon next. There are Carbone favorites on the horizon, such as the spicy rigatoni vodka ($36), but also rare discoveries such as the ricotta gnocchi con caviar ($110), sheep and cow’s milk gnocchi in black truffle butter with dollops of Ossetra. Or Carbone’s Famous two-pound lobster fettuccine ($175), whose glory is neatly contained in its name.
By the time you get to the mains, you’re primed for something spectacular, and Carbone Riviera delivers. Branzino al Sale Verde ($325), serving four to six people, is a temptation worth indulging. Ditto the Dover sole ($155), Alaskan King Crab (market price; reserve it 24 hours ahead), and the rich and marbled Snake River Farms Gold Label American Wagyu, available in cuts from a 16-ounce ribeye ($150) to a 40-ounce Florentina ($465).
Carbone Riviera’s plates are sizable, its tastes distinctive—and its vibes are star-quality. Leo only wishes he were here.
CARBONE RIVIERA Bellagio, 702-693-8105, carboneriviera.com. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5-11 p.m.
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Dining and Cooking