Lyon is a popular destination in France for travelers seeking a taste of authentic French food. It is considered the capital of gastronomy in France. It’s also the third-largest city in France. If you are planning a trip to Europe anytime, you can’t skip Lyon, the birthplace of the finest French food.
Lyon has beautiful, narrow, and picturesque cobblestone streets, and it is a very easy city to walk around. What connects the whole city of Lyon are the traboules of Vieux, a network of covered passages and courtyards that connect different streets within the old city of Lyon.
On our visit, we went for a two-hour walking tour in Lyon, and we explored the whole city walking through those hidden passages with our tour guide. For centuries, these beautiful hidden passages through buildings have been giving shortcuts to people who have been living there.
The second special thing we found in Lyon were the “Bouchon,” which are the main traditional restaurants of the city. They serve traditional meals in a cosy, informal setting. But if you are a vegetarian, then a Bouchon is not a place for you to dine. Most of the dishes are meat-based and cooked with different kinds of animal fat. For the meat eaters, you can try some of the classic dishes, such as the “quenelle de brochet,” “tripe a la lyonnaise,” or “andouillete.”
The City of Lyon is surrounded by some of the finest raw materials in France, and all the ingredients used in the food in restaurants in Lyon are fresh. That is probably one of the secrets behind all the cuisine served in the restaurants. In the north of Lyon, there is the vineyard, and to the West of Lyon, there is the farmland of Monts du Lyonnais. The “lakes of Ain” provide Lyon with the best quality carp and crayfish. The Bourg-en-Bresse area provides the city of Lyon with the best quality chicken.
I loved the fact that the ordinary women of the households of Lyon are behind the history of the special cuisine of this city. Women used to prepare basic and simple meals for the men of the family, canuts, who were silk-weaving workers. While doing what others might call a basic job, these women created new culinary traditions and became famous in Lyon and nearby areas for their cooking.
Mère Fillioux, a lady from Lyon, became very well known for her demi-deuil (truffled hen), and later she opened her own bistro and taught the culinary craft to another culinary iconic figure, Mère Eugénie Brazier.
Eugénie Brazier was a chef and was referred to as “the mother of French cooking.” She was the first person ever awarded 6 Michelin stars. She was even called the second mayor of Lyon. She also trained one of the most famous chefs in the world, Paul Bocuse, who has been a leading figure in French cuisine. We can say that les mères lyonnaises revolutionized not only the kitchens of Lyon but also the whole of France.
We tried the restaurant Chez Grand Père, in Lyon, and they had the best French food I have ever had in my life!!
A few traditional French dishes which we had the opportunity of trying in Lyon-
Cervelle de canut
A specialty of Lyon, which is used as a spread or dip. It is like cottage cheese. Has a base of fromage blanc, seasoned with chopped herbs, shallots, salt, pepper, olive oil, and vinegar.
Terrine Maison
This is like a meatloaf made of chicken or poultry liver and served with pickles and bread as a starter.
Poulet À La Crème Et Champignons
It’s a tender braised chicken covered in a rich, creamy tarragon sauce. The tarragon sauce is made with white wine, onions, tarragon (herb), and cream. French tarragon is expensive because it does not produce viable seeds and must be propagated by root division or cuttings.
Roasted French-Style Potatoes
I was told that French potatoes are tossed with oil, a splash of white wine, herbs, and seasonings, then they are roasted in a hot oven.
Raclette de brie
Raclette is a dish where cheese is heated or melted
Salade Lyonnaise
A bistro classic from the city of Lyon, in southern France
We went for a walking tour in Lyon and learned all these interesting facts from our tour guide, who also told us that Lyon is the birthplace of cinema. The Lumière brothers invented the cinema in 1895, on what is now called the Rue du Premier Film (First Movie Street).
If you are visiting France this year, do plan a visit to Lyon. Lyon is a city rich in culture, history and culinary delicacies. You can go for a variety of food tours, walking tours, cooking classes, and market tours. Each of these tours offer a unique experience. I came home from Lyon with beautiful memories and with a deep interest in French food. Those of you who know me know that I love cooking, and now cooking French food at home is going to be my new obsession. Hope you all plan a trip to Lyon soon too!
Bon voyage!
EDITOR’S NOTE: Mona Pande is a local artist and art teacher who is active with the charity work of the Pennsylvania Asian Indian Community. This is her first travel column for the Times Leader.
Dining and Cooking